North Face

Page Type
Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Moderate Ice-Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Page By:
North Face
Created On: Jan 3, 2002
Last Edited On: Jan 4, 2002


From Kandersteg you take the SkiLift or walk by foot to the Oeschinensee.
From there you continue @@@ hours over a regular trail / snow to the Fründenhütte
See Accomodation on the Main-Page for more info on Hut.

Route Description

Books: SAC-Clubfuehrer Berner Alpen 2
Erich Vanis
First Ascent: 08.Jul.1934 Max Bachmann &Samuel Plietz
Ascent: The approach to the face is not 100% obvious, as you have to climb over a steep rocky face to get to the base.Looking at the ridge from Fruendenhuette, there are 2 ledges that seem possible. Take the upper one, and make sure you find some cables somewhere during your climb. The approach can easily take 1-2 hours from the hut! Then go up as seen in the Topo-picture approx. 4-7 hours
Descent: The Descent is over the Glacier to the right, towards the Doldenhorn-Hut, Skis make this part a lot of fun, as this side is the common Ski-Route on the Mountain.
Report: Some more information can be found on my page.

Essential Gear

Standard Ice-Climbing Equipment for North-Faces and Glacier Travel.
Snow-stakes are not really necessary, but Ice-Screws might be really relpful at near the top !
Skis are great until around June, because you can descent on skis all
the way to the Doldenhornhuette !