North Face

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock, Mixed when snow-covered
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
North Face
Created On: Jun 5, 2004
Last Edited On: Jun 5, 2004


Head out on Kearsarge Pass trail; right when you reach Big Pothole Lake go Southwest to the beginning of Northeast ridge (the beginning of the ridge is obvious, but consult photos for further detail) - this is the beginning of the climb.

Route Description

Follow the NE Ridge for two pitches, or so, until you reach a prominent notch. At the top of the notch head out onto the face, finding the "best" route available. It is hard to descride the exact route, but a study of the uploaded photos should make the it somewhat clear. After about 5 pitches (as the protection on the route is scarce I suggest using half-pitches, utilizing the good places to protect for anchors), you reach the top pinnacle; traverse west, and then south, on flat slab around the pinnacle to come to the summit block. The summit block is 30' of unprotectable 5.6 friction slab, which gets progressively harder until the crux; the only way to make a sound belay is to have two people belay the leader from the east and west of the summitblock simultaneously, resulting in something like a keelhaul, if he happens to slip. There is a 1/4" bolt, and hanger, which is sound, for a rappell and an old bolt which should be avoided.
One way to get off the route, which is very fast, is to rappell off the NW face; this can cost you a couple of slings, but one pitch gets you down to scree, or snow, which you can hike back to Kearsarge Pass.

Essential Gear

An alpine rope, of course, and a bunch of slings; the route didn't take protection well and I was able to place just a few slings on every pitch.

Miscellaneous Info

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