North Face

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 40.08800°N / 105.633°W
Additional Information Route Type: Mixed
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: One to two days
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: steep snow/M3
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 5
Additional Information Grade: IV
Sign the Climber's Log


Mount Toll does have a small North Face on it with two couloirs on each side. This submission explains the couloir on the left side of the face.

Completing this route in the fall will include powder snow and much more rock. The spring the snow fills the couloir and, if desired, you wouldn't have to touch any rock.....but that wouldn't be as much fun.

Getting There

To Blue Lake
As most of Toll's routes go, you must hike to Blue Lake from Brainard Lake.

The hike is well marked to Mitchell Lake, then you are more on your own as the trees thin out. Just keep going up. You can't miss it.

Route Description

From Blue Lake head directly for the Paiute Peak/Mount Toll saddle. Before you get to the saddle make a left turn and start heading up the N Face. There are many different ways to do this face. The red line in the route image is the line we took. You should be able to do the entire line with out touching rock (in the spring), but that wouldn't be fun.
First Pitch

First pitch was class four rock. We didn't rope up until we hit the snow again.
2nd Pitch

Second pitch was steep snow ~ 55*. We added a little mixed section to spice things up.
Third Pitch

Third and fourth pitch was all snow still at ~ 55*.
Fourth Pitch

Fifth pitch, we decided to stay to the left into a difficult mixed section with moves up to 5.7. After the rock it was a walk to the summit.
Last Pitch

Descend down the SE face. Watch for avalanches!

Essential Gear

60m rope. Medium to small nuts and cams. Good pro on the right or left side of the coulior.


We camped at Blue Lake for two nights. Both nights had amazing wind and we couldn't sleep at all. May be wise to camp lower with protection of trees, or you could build some snow walls, but they could melt quickly in the spring.



Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.