North Face

Page Type
Route
Location:
Colorado, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mixed
Season:
Spring, Fall
Time Required:
One to two days
Difficulty:
steep snow/M3
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
5
Grade:
IV

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Page By:
North Face
Created On: Aug 23, 2010
Last Edited On: Jan 13, 2011

Overview

Mount Toll does have a small North Face on it with two couloirs on each side. This submission explains the couloir on the left side of the face.

Completing this route in the fall will include powder snow and much more rock. The spring the snow fills the couloir and, if desired, you wouldn't have to touch any rock.....but that wouldn't be as much fun.

Getting There

To Blue Lake
As most of Toll's routes go, you must hike to Blue Lake from Brainard Lake.

The hike is well marked to Mitchell Lake, then you are more on your own as the trees thin out. Just keep going up. You can't miss it.

Route Description

From Blue Lake head directly for the Paiute Peak/Mount Toll saddle. Before you get to the saddle make a left turn and start heading up the N Face. There are many different ways to do this face. The red line in the route image is the line we took. You should be able to do the entire line with out touching rock (in the spring), but that wouldn't be fun.
First Pitch

First pitch was class four rock. We didn't rope up until we hit the snow again.
2nd Pitch

Second pitch was steep snow ~ 55*. We added a little mixed section to spice things up.
Third Pitch

Third and fourth pitch was all snow still at ~ 55*.
Fourth Pitch

Fifth pitch, we decided to stay to the left into a difficult mixed section with moves up to 5.7. After the rock it was a walk to the summit.
Last Pitch

Descend down the SE face. Watch for avalanches!

Essential Gear

60m rope. Medium to small nuts and cams. Good pro on the right or left side of the coulior.

Other

We camped at Blue Lake for two nights. Both nights had amazing wind and we couldn't sleep at all. May be wise to camp lower with protection of trees, or you could build some snow walls, but they could melt quickly in the spring.
Camp







North Face

Route
9 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Routes in Colorado

Parents

Mount TollRoutes