Another option to reach the North Face of Buckner is to hike up to Cascade Pass, and then on up to Sahale Arm. There are a few good bivi sites on the arm below the pinnacle of Sahale. It's about 5-6 miles from the car to camp. From camp ascend Sahale (watch sunrise over Logan and Buckner) and down to the Boston-Sahale col. Follow the route from here (see Qien Sabe approach). The traverse beneath Boston Peak is somewhat loose.
I have also heard of parties climbing light and fast go all the way over Sahale and bivi on the Boston Glacier, just before Ripsaw Ridge.
For the descent downclimb the SW face of Buckner, across the Horseshoe basin, staying somewhat high (above 6000'). Look for a wide snow coulior on Sahale's east face/shoulder, and ascend back to camp (1000'+ gain). This option can be done in 2-3 days.
Ragu - May 23, 2005 1:13 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentAnother option to reach the North Face of Buckner is to hike up to Cascade Pass, and then on up to Sahale Arm. There are a few good bivi sites on the arm below the pinnacle of Sahale. It's about 5-6 miles from the car to camp. From camp ascend Sahale (watch sunrise over Logan and Buckner) and down to the Boston-Sahale col. Follow the route from here (see Qien Sabe approach). The traverse beneath Boston Peak is somewhat loose.
I have also heard of parties climbing light and fast go all the way over Sahale and bivi on the Boston Glacier, just before Ripsaw Ridge.
For the descent downclimb the SW face of Buckner, across the Horseshoe basin, staying somewhat high (above 6000'). Look for a wide snow coulior on Sahale's east face/shoulder, and ascend back to camp (1000'+ gain). This option can be done in 2-3 days.