North Gully, Huntington Ravine

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.27060°N / 71.3047°W
Additional Information Route Type: multi-pitch snow and ice climb
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: WI3
Sign the Climber's Log


from Pinkham Notchstart as for all the Huntington Ravine climbs - up the Tuckerman Ravine trail, etc. etc. When you get to the bottom of the ravine, keep going at first approximately as the trail goes and then turning right. To stay on course it helps to keep on the crest of a very minor ridge for several hundred feet. You will see Damnation Gully - the long prominent couloir that takes a striking line right up to the top of the ravine; North Gully is right of that. You will see it only when you get close, because it's turned inwards and facing left. Climb up snow until it gets steep and then set up your belay; as with Pinnacle Gully, pickets may be a good idea.

Route Description

As with most Huntington gullies, the first pitch is the steepest, longest and most difficult. Head up steep snow until you hit ice. The ice rapidly becomes steep and you climb to a small shelf; after that is another steep section. Both can be 60 degrees or more. After the second steep section is another, bigger shelf. If you still have rope at this point (with 60 m you should) you can continue up the next small step (which often has no ice at all, but rather is a very short, low grade 5 rock move) and belay after it; otherwise belay on this shelf. The next 2 pitches are mostly snow with short bits of ice, but it can be somewhat steep two. After there there are several more pitches with snow and sometimes rock as the gully becomes less and less distinct...many parties simul-climb those. As you exit the gully you emerge onto the massive boulder pile of Nelson Crag. In mid to late season with heavy snowfall, it's possible to descend by heading right and down along the wide ridge and then bushwhacking towards the base of the ravine; otherwise, scrable several hundred more feet up to the summit of Nelson Crag and from there hike the Alpine Garden Trail to whatever descent route you prefer (Escape Hatch, Lions Head or one of the easier gullies, whatever...)

Essential Gear

2 ice tools, 60 m rope, pickes, screws (8 or more), runners and biners

Miscellaneous Info

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