...in the season. We hiked past all the beautiful lakes and made camp in Sam Mack Meadow on 9/12. We then went for it on 9/13 and got close to the bergshrund on the Palisade Glacier just below the U-Notch but it was too late in the season; it was far too wide and impassable.The glacier itself was sun-cupped and hard making travel more difficult. So we hiked back down to camp and the next day we did some rock climbing in the meadow. We hiked back out on 9/15. This was a very physically demanding but extremely beautiful climb. I would advise attempting this before the month of August begins.
Exact date uncertain. Climbed with Chuck Mims, a colleague graduate student in the chemistry department at UC Berkeley, introducing Chuck to mountaineering. Ascended to the right of the rocks in the U-notch couloir. We descended the other side, which was much easier. Earlier I had attempted a solo ascent of that route, but decided to not proceed without a belay after crossing the bergschrund. Descending I carved my first bollard in the snow above the bergschrund to rappel back over the bergschrund. On the way back to the Bay Area I picked up a girl hitch hiking on the east side of Tioga pass. I joined her boyfriend for dinner at a campground on the other side of the park. I remember her stating that she was "amoral" I have wondered from time to time what adventures would have been offered if I hadn't decided to continue on my drive back to the Bay Area that evening. They introduced me to John Muir's book on self maintenance of VWs, which I used to start doing my own work on my "bug."
Did the Palisade traverse from Thunderbolt to Sill as a day hike from South Lake. I used a rappel in the notch between Starlight and N Palisade.
Via U-notch and chimney. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NASwdKPOz-M
From campsite just South of Thunderbolt Col, with Todd & Tom. Beautiful clear day.
Challenging route in places for my soloing tastes, didn't look at anything other than Secor and thought the fifth class was limited to the start...it wasn't. Still a decent amount of snow in some places from last week's storm, slowed progress considerably in steep spots as I didn't bring proper gear. All in all a good, tough climb.
Day trip with Kurt from SMI. Long day, great route, and hell of a way to close out the summer.
With Paul K and Marianne S. We took the Moore ledges (at approximately 13,800' and ascended into a chute one or two reach arounds early with good class 4 rock and one short section of 5.3, which put us right at the bottom of the summit bowl. On the way down we stayed to the right and hit the ledges bypassing the class 4 route we had taken up, and had three reach arounds to get back to the main chute. This is when we realized we didn't go far enough to gain the main ascent chute (some where above the notorious chock stones found in the Le Conte route). Our chute worked well for us, though, as the rock was good and was free of the loose crap found every where else on this climb.
Link up with Polemonium via the LeConte Route on a beautiful day.
Southwest chute number 1 up thunderbolt and traversed to Starlight and North Pal. Went down the west side of the u-notch in the dark.
via Le Conte ledge
A long day with Mark starting from South Lake, traversing to Polemonium after North Pal, then back to our bivy at Thunderbolt Pass. Glad to get the CA 14ers done, but a tough day thinking about our friend Pat Hadley who was supposed to join us on this trip.
Climbed u-notch couloir and Clyde variation with Reza. Almost killed by rockfall rappelling the couloir. Had done the couloir the year before.
1994: attempt with Doug. Exhausted after 9hr hike to glacier. Henceforth, rode horseback to glacier turnoff.
So Seacor says "go left of large gendarm." But in the distance I see this crack on the right. So I go to the base of this thing and climb it. It was very cool. 10a ish. The problem was it leaves you on a small ledge just to the west side of the large chock stone in the huge chimney. I probably could have broad jumped to the boulder but instead I climbed over. It's like 10' of 10+. No problem except all the holds are vertical no horizontals at 14k. :) Anybody know what this crack is?
Great classic climb up the snow of the U-Notch, then up to the summit ridge and summit. Long day and great follow-up to a failed prior attempt.
Quick stop as we carried on from Thunderbolt to Sill. The overhanging block was a fun little short rap between Starlight and North Pal.
First climbed in August 2008 when a late season and little snow made the U-notch from the front a bad option, so over Bishop pass and up the back. Took the chimney from there, then Polemonium before the decent.
Up the west chute, across the catwalk, and past the two chockstones. Fun route finding on the way to the summit block. A tragic fatal accident the day before (somewhere in the vicinity of the catwalk) had us going slowly and carefully.
In Febuary traversed from Sill to Starlight.
Great route, my friend Duane had to leave following the climb of T-Bolt the day before due to altitude sickness. Met Anthony Ambrose on the trail and climbed it with him the next day. Next morning 2-3 inches of snow everywhere, packed up for a hot shower at Parchers.