North Palisade Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 136
wdimpfl

wdimpfl - Dec 23, 2017 12:52 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1970

U-Notch from the East  Sucess!

Exact date uncertain. Climbed with Chuck Mims, a colleague graduate student in the chemistry department at UC Berkeley, introducing Chuck to mountaineering. Ascended to the right of the rocks in the U-notch couloir. We descended the other side, which was much easier. Earlier I had attempted a solo ascent of that route, but decided to not proceed without a belay after crossing the bergschrund. Descending I carved my first bollard in the snow above the bergschrund to rappel back over the bergschrund. On the way back to the Bay Area I picked up a girl hitch hiking on the east side of Tioga pass. I joined her boyfriend for dinner at a campground on the other side of the park. I remember her stating that she was "amoral" I have wondered from time to time what adventures would have been offered if I hadn't decided to continue on my drive back to the Bay Area that evening. They introduced me to John Muir's book on self maintenance of VWs, which I used to start doing my own work on my "bug."

utclimber - Aug 30, 2017 10:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2017

Palisade Traverse  Sucess!

Did the Palisade traverse from Thunderbolt to Sill as a day hike from South Lake. I used a rappel in the notch between Starlight and N Palisade.

Simkin

Simkin - Jul 8, 2017 1:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2017

Free solo  Sucess!

Via U-notch and chimney. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NASwdKPOz-M

Fletch

Fletch - Sep 11, 2016 11:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2016

Sweet peak  Sucess!

Good times!

Fairweather

Fairweather - Oct 17, 2015 7:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2013

West Chute   Sucess!

From campsite just South of Thunderbolt Col, with Todd & Tom. Beautiful clear day.

CameronGround

CameronGround - Oct 12, 2015 8:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2015

W Face  Sucess!

Challenging route in places for my soloing tastes, didn't look at anything other than Secor and thought the fifth class was limited to the start...it wasn't. Still a decent amount of snow in some places from last week's storm, slowed progress considerably in steep spots as I didn't bring proper gear. All in all a good, tough climb.

bennovak

bennovak - Oct 2, 2015 12:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2015

U Notch from West  Sucess!

Day trip with Kurt from SMI. Long day, great route, and hell of a way to close out the summer.

jdmorehouse

jdmorehouse - Sep 15, 2014 1:16 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2014

Moore's Variation   Sucess!

With Paul K and Marianne S. We took the Moore ledges (at approximately 13,800' and ascended into a chute one or two reach arounds early with good class 4 rock and one short section of 5.3, which put us right at the bottom of the summit bowl. On the way down we stayed to the right and hit the ledges bypassing the class 4 route we had taken up, and had three reach arounds to get back to the main chute. This is when we realized we didn't go far enough to gain the main ascent chute (some where above the notorious chock stones found in the Le Conte route). Our chute worked well for us, though, as the rock was good and was free of the loose crap found every where else on this climb.

DukeJH

DukeJH - Aug 15, 2014 5:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2014

LeConte Route  Sucess!

Link up with Polemonium via the LeConte Route on a beautiful day.

Luke Swanson

Luke Swanson - Oct 24, 2013 5:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2013

TBolt to North Pal  Sucess!

Southwest chute number 1 up thunderbolt and traversed to Starlight and North Pal. Went down the west side of the u-notch in the dark.

douggranger

douggranger - Sep 12, 2013 9:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2012

U-Notch from West  Sucess!

via Le Conte ledge

cab

cab - Sep 9, 2013 11:59 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2013

LeConte Route  Sucess!

A long day with Mark starting from South Lake, traversing to Polemonium after North Pal, then back to our bivy at Thunderbolt Pass. Glad to get the CA 14ers done, but a tough day thinking about our friend Pat Hadley who was supposed to join us on this trip.

Donno

Donno - Aug 12, 2013 11:05 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2000

U-Notch  Sucess!

Climbed u-notch couloir and Clyde variation with Reza. Almost killed by rockfall rappelling the couloir. Had done the couloir the year before.

1994: attempt with Doug. Exhausted after 9hr hike to glacier. Henceforth, rode horseback to glacier turnoff.

westhegimp

westhegimp - Aug 11, 2013 7:55 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2009

Traverse from Tbolt

So Seacor says "go left of large gendarm." But in the distance I see this crack on the right. So I go to the base of this thing and climb it. It was very cool. 10a ish. The problem was it leaves you on a small ledge just to the west side of the large chock stone in the huge chimney. I probably could have broad jumped to the boulder but instead I climbed over. It's like 10' of 10+. No problem except all the holds are vertical no horizontals at 14k. :) Anybody know what this crack is?

rdesota

rdesota - Oct 8, 2012 12:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2005

Via U- Notch  Sucess!

Great classic climb up the snow of the U-Notch, then up to the summit ridge and summit. Long day and great follow-up to a failed prior attempt.

mrchad9

mrchad9 - Sep 24, 2012 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2012

2x  Sucess!

Quick stop as we carried on from Thunderbolt to Sill. The overhanging block was a fun little short rap between Starlight and North Pal.

First climbed in August 2008 when a late season and little snow made the U-notch from the front a bad option, so over Bishop pass and up the back. Took the chimney from there, then Polemonium before the decent.

ckerth

ckerth - Sep 20, 2012 10:06 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012

West Chute  Sucess!

Up the west chute, across the catwalk, and past the two chockstones. Fun route finding on the way to the summit block. A tragic fatal accident the day before (somewhere in the vicinity of the catwalk) had us going slowly and carefully.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Aug 27, 2012 3:44 pm

Winter climb  Sucess!

In Febuary traversed from Sill to Starlight.

krrt2000

krrt2000 - Feb 24, 2012 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1994

Southwest (original) Route  Sucess!

Great route, my friend Duane had to leave following the climb of T-Bolt the day before due to altitude sickness. Met Anthony Ambrose on the trail and climbed it with him the next day. Next morning 2-3 inches of snow everywhere, packed up for a hot shower at Parchers.

efunk

efunk - Oct 7, 2011 1:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011

Beautiful Area

Amazing views along the traverse. Hope to head back soon to do the t-bolt - sill in its entirety.

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