Route Climbed: Right-hand couloir Date Climbed: October 1, 2005
My very first real ice climb! Climbed with Mike Ybarra. We solo'd the lower third of the couloir (neve) and roped up for 2.5 pitches of smooth water ice. First pitch was brittle and challenging. The remaining one and a half were awesome!! We summited under galeforce winds.
Route Climbed: R couloir Date Climbed: 17 September, 2005
Third time's the charm!! Finally summited this great peak via the route I'd wanted after 2 aborted attempts (enthusiastic but inexperienced partners, late starts, inclement weather, & icefall from parties ahead of us)! Kris was a good, albeit sometimes dissatisfied & vocal, partner.
We left the parking lot @ 6.47. A party who started shortly after us (which was acclimated after a few days' climbing in the area) passed us & got first dibs on the climb. Fortunately they were pretty fast, & didn't send down too much ice.
We made fair time up the couloir. Kris & I switched leads. Although I at first wanted to attempt to do the whole couloir via French technique, this was soon dismissed as too laborious, & I just front-pointed, using my 3rd tool for occasional traction. Couloir was approximately 1/3 ice (the rest being hard snow). Ice was technically moderate, but quite enjoyable! Just slightly brittle.
After reaching the top of the gully, we stashed our tools, ropes, & crampons, & 3rd-classed up the remainder. Much 4th with some 3rd & a few parts of easy 5th that looked fun. Rock was mostly good quality.
Summit was sublime (summited @ 16.14), as the weather was great, the views phenomenal, & the final success sweet.
Left the top @ 16.54, having a mostly non-noteworthy descent, we got back to the truck at dark. I absolutely hate that trail along the lake- can't trail maintenance move some of that scree (maybe it's non-maintained, as it's outside the park)??!!
Route Climbed: North Couloir (right) Date Climbed: Sept. 5th, 2005
My first multi-pitch ice climb. Climbed with Miguel Forjan. We roped up for the first pitch at 10am. Nieve for the first 60m. Miguel led all 3 pitches even after his Mathes Crest traverse the day before. We both bailed on the summit after leaving the couloir at 3pm having each had very little sleep the night before (I pulled up to the trail head to sleep at 1:am). Fun first ice climb. The Left Couloir was being climbed by a team of two. It looked like mostly nieve and then a 100ft+/-. exposed rock section right in the middle with ice(?) above it (next year for us I hope...) Here are some pics...
A nice half-day hike in a beautiful area. The mosquitos near Greenstone Lake were horrible and we were swarmed by huge clouds of them. Very nice summit views that really make me want to climb the north ridge of Conness.
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: Oct. 13, 2002
Spur of the moment, last trip for Dug before he moved to NYC made this rather bittersweet. Despite his fear of snow, Dug will be missed sorely as a constant companion in the Sierra.
The ridge is easy, and if you are soloing and get trepidatious at any point one can drop down to the right (west) for easier terrain. But you would be sorry. The knife-edge is delightful climbing on clean rock.
Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: June 25, 2004; July 31, 2004
Soloed the route twice this summer, both times with Bob (just for a change). The first time was a warm-up for Williamson the next day, the next time was as the approach to Conness' North Ridge. This is a nice scramble, especially in conjunction with Conness.
Route Climbed: Right Couloir Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2004
Josh's first alpine ice. 3 pitches. 4 climbers waited for us at the schrund--hope we didn't send too many dinner plates down. Summit was windless and warm.
Warning: we did the cl3 direct approach up slabs to the glacier. Stay in the middle of the slabs--we started following ramps to the left and had to cross exposed, sketchy terrain to get back on the scramble.
The summit is EZ cl3 from the saddle, w/1 cl4 move if you go direct.
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: September 25, 2004
I climbed the couloir with Pavel and Vendula. Due to having only one 50 m rope it took us a long time to climb it. There were two other climbers above us which meant we were constantly getting hit by falling ice. Over all a great climb with a nice, short approach and easy descend. We finished the climb in the dark . Pavel went to the summit while Vendula and I decided to hike down.
Misha - Oct 3, 2005 10:00 am
Route Climbed: Right-hand couloir Date Climbed: October 1, 2005My very first real ice climb! Climbed with Mike Ybarra. We solo'd the lower third of the couloir (neve) and roped up for 2.5 pitches of smooth water ice. First pitch was brittle and challenging. The remaining one and a half were awesome!! We summited under galeforce winds.
Diggler - Sep 20, 2005 2:03 pm
Route Climbed: R couloir Date Climbed: 17 September, 2005Third time's the charm!! Finally summited this great peak via the route I'd wanted after 2 aborted attempts (enthusiastic but inexperienced partners, late starts, inclement weather, & icefall from parties ahead of us)! Kris was a good, albeit sometimes dissatisfied & vocal, partner.
We left the parking lot @ 6.47. A party who started shortly after us (which was acclimated after a few days' climbing in the area) passed us & got first dibs on the climb. Fortunately they were pretty fast, & didn't send down too much ice.
We made fair time up the couloir. Kris & I switched leads. Although I at first wanted to attempt to do the whole couloir via French technique, this was soon dismissed as too laborious, & I just front-pointed, using my 3rd tool for occasional traction. Couloir was approximately 1/3 ice (the rest being hard snow). Ice was technically moderate, but quite enjoyable! Just slightly brittle.
After reaching the top of the gully, we stashed our tools, ropes, & crampons, & 3rd-classed up the remainder. Much 4th with some 3rd & a few parts of easy 5th that looked fun. Rock was mostly good quality.
Summit was sublime (summited @ 16.14), as the weather was great, the views phenomenal, & the final success sweet.
Left the top @ 16.54, having a mostly non-noteworthy descent, we got back to the truck at dark. I absolutely hate that trail along the lake- can't trail maintenance move some of that scree (maybe it's non-maintained, as it's outside the park)??!!
Mango marg' & fish tacos @ Whoa Nelli were great!
Kerstin - Sep 17, 2005 1:17 pm
Route Climbed: Southwest Slope Date Climbed: October 4, 1999Slogged up the sandy Southwest Slopes solo. I really enjoyed hanging around on the summit and looking down those couloirs!
awagher - Sep 6, 2005 12:42 pm
Route Climbed: North Couloir (right) Date Climbed: Sept. 5th, 2005My first multi-pitch ice climb. Climbed with Miguel Forjan. We roped up for the first pitch at 10am. Nieve for the first 60m. Miguel led all 3 pitches even after his Mathes Crest traverse the day before. We both bailed on the summit after leaving the couloir at 3pm having each had very little sleep the night before (I pulled up to the trail head to sleep at 1:am). Fun first ice climb. The Left Couloir was being climbed by a team of two. It looked like mostly nieve and then a 100ft+/-. exposed rock section right in the middle with ice(?) above it (next year for us I hope...) Here are some pics...
soslaw - Sep 6, 2005 11:09 am
Route Climbed: South East Chute Date Climbed: September 4, 2005Climbed with Andre on another glorious day in the High Sierra. Good class 2-3 scramble. 5 hours round trip.
uwjennie - Aug 23, 2005 1:46 pm
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: 9/19/04Great climb.
tiogap - Aug 23, 2005 12:23 am
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 20, 2005Really enjoyed this climb. excellent rock in a beautiful area.
Second time on the peak. First time was via the rh couloir in 1998.
Samantha - Aug 9, 2005 5:29 am
Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: August 6, 2005Great mountain page! I ♥ Summitpost.org.
Dave K - Aug 7, 2005 12:25 am
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 8/6/05I thoroughly enjoyed this climb. The rock was excellent and handholds were abundant. On the way out we saw a bald eagle over Saddlebag Lake.
Brian Kalet - Jul 25, 2005 4:10 pm
Route Climbed: SE Chute Date Climbed: July 23, 2005Nice acclimatization hike.
birdhead - Jul 25, 2005 1:22 pm
Route Climbed: SE Chute Date Climbed: 07/24/05A nice half-day hike in a beautiful area. The mosquitos near Greenstone Lake were horrible and we were swarmed by huge clouds of them. Very nice summit views that really make me want to climb the north ridge of Conness.
ExploreABitMore - Mar 4, 2005 10:29 pm
Route Climbed: SW Slope Date Climbed: 08/01/04Incredible views and a beautiful day.
Carbo - Feb 14, 2005 11:30 pm
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: can't rememberPerfect conditions on our second couloir climb, we skipped the summit and descended to quick dip in the lake before the usual long drive home
plume - Feb 13, 2005 2:33 am
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: Oct. 13, 2002Spur of the moment, last trip for Dug before he moved to NYC made this rather bittersweet. Despite his fear of snow, Dug will be missed sorely as a constant companion in the Sierra.
The ridge is easy, and if you are soloing and get trepidatious at any point one can drop down to the right (west) for easier terrain. But you would be sorry. The knife-edge is delightful climbing on clean rock.
Matthew Holliman - Nov 15, 2004 11:49 pm
Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: June 25, 2004; July 31, 2004Soloed the route twice this summer, both times with Bob (just for a change). The first time was a warm-up for Williamson the next day, the next time was as the approach to Conness' North Ridge. This is a nice scramble, especially in conjunction with Conness.
Felsberg - Oct 12, 2004 4:13 pm
Route Climbed: SE Chute (climbers right var.) Date Climbed: October 10, 2004Fun scramble as an interlude to working on the conness glacier in sub-freezing temperatures. PICS
Scott Pierce - Oct 11, 2004 1:03 pm
Route Climbed: Right Couloir Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2004Josh's first alpine ice. 3 pitches. 4 climbers waited for us at the schrund--hope we didn't send too many dinner plates down. Summit was windless and warm.
Warning: we did the cl3 direct approach up slabs to the glacier. Stay in the middle of the slabs--we started following ramps to the left and had to cross exposed, sketchy terrain to get back on the scramble.
The summit is EZ cl3 from the saddle, w/1 cl4 move if you go direct.
TDRoberts - Oct 9, 2004 8:01 pm
Route Climbed: SE Chutes Date Climbed: Sep 25 2004Great short day hike from Saddlebag Lake.
Zzyzx - Sep 29, 2004 1:12 am
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: September 25, 2004I climbed the couloir with Pavel and Vendula. Due to having only one 50 m rope it took us a long time to climb it. There were two other climbers above us which meant we were constantly getting hit by falling ice. Over all a great climb with a nice, short approach and easy descend. We finished the climb in the dark . Pavel went to the summit while Vendula and I decided to hike down.
Bob Burd - Sep 28, 2004 11:52 pm
Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: July 31, 2004Day 1 of the 2004 Sierra Challenge saw 8 of us soloing the easy NW Ridge on our way to Conness. Trip Report