My friend Luis and I climbed the left couloir while Pavel and Misha were getting on the right couloir. It snowed lightly all day and it was butt cold: temperatures hovered anywhere from single digits to lower teens. However, the ice was pretty nice. We got a late start. Started the first pitch at 11:30am. We skipped the summit (short daylight, blowing snowing in your eyes and cold drove us out) as we topped out just before 3pm.
Route Climbed: Left Couloir
Date Climbed: September 16, 2006
Started from the Saddlebag Lake parking lot at 6:30am. Solo the left couloir in 45 minutes. Summited North Peak at 10:15am. Stayed half an hour there before going on to the north ridge of Conness. Descended the standard east ridge of Conness via Alpine Lake. Back at Saddlebag Lake at 3:55pm (~ 9.5 hrs roundtrip).
Route Climbed: NE Right couloir
Date Climbed: September 5, 2005
Climbed with awagher. We took my 60m rope, 6 ice crews, set of nuts and various slings and cordolettes. Conditions (as of 9/5/05) were as follows: Pitch 1 was all easy neve. Then, the remaining 3 pitches were all surprisingly hard water ice. The last 40 feet (before you top out) on pitch 4 was neve again. The 'shrund this year is lower down on the left side of the couloir. It hasn't opened up across yet. Get on the couloir on the right side. Took us about 5 hours to climb the 4 pitches. Because we had a late start (didn't get on the couloir 'til after 10am) and lack of sleep, we decided to skip the summit. Now, the left couloir of North Peak looked like it was all neve, however, 2/3 of the way up it has a 60 foot section of rock all across (must climb rock 60 feet and then get on neve again).
Route Climbed: NE Right couloir
Date Climbed: October 4, 2003
A mini-epic day! Climbed the right NE couloir with Alex. We started hiking from Saddlebag Lake at 5:05am. We reached the bottom of the snow/ice patch around 8:40am or so. This is where we geared up. Unfortunately on this Saturday there were several parties climbing the right Northeast Couloir ahead of us, so we had to wait and take our turn. We actually started climbing at 9:45am despite the ice chunks coming down from the climbers above. I led all the 4 pitches as Alex had trouble with his right foot boot/crampon combination. I got hit by a softball-size ice chunk on my right rib cage that took my breath away for several seconds at the top of the 1st pitch.
After that, we still dodged several ice chunks but fortunately we didn't get hit anymore. We mostly climbed the right side of the couloir. Except for a small section on the middle of the 2nd pitch, most of the ice was brittle as a result of the previous climbing parties chopping tons of ice down the couloir. It was a bowling alley with Alex and I being the bowling pins. I finally did reach the notch at the very late hour of 3:50pm. Another 40 minutes would pass before Alex topped out. We took a half-hour break at the notch eating, drinking and putting away tools and crampons. We started climbing the class 3 rock chute to the summit at 5:05pm. I reached the summit 25 minutes later at 5:30pm. I did my usual class 4 variation just directly below the summit by climbing the class 4 20-foot section chimney there on climber's right. We got down to the notch, picked up our gear and descended the SE chute down the Conness Lake area. It was almost 8:30pm by the time we got back to the car at Saddlebag Lake: 15.5 hours roundtrip car-to-car = a mini-epic day!
Route Climbed: NE Right couloir
Date Climbed: October 13, 2002
We climbed the right NE couloir of North Peak. Camped close to Cascade Lake Saturday evening. We climbed unroped 'til the bergschrund. At this point we roped up, and my partner (Mark O'Brian) led the pitches. We climbed the couloir on the left side. The right side had about 3" of snow on it and was not totally consolidated. My partner used 2 ice tools, and I used 2 ice tools, too. Placed a combination of rock pro (left side of couloir) at most belay spots and ice screws (and additional rock pro) for pitch protection. We used a 60m rope and it worked out to 4 pitches for us. We encountered 2 other climbing parties; each with a party of 3. One party of 3 climbed roped up with fixed belays (like us) and the other party of 3 climbed unroped each soloing (the unroped party: each of them had 2 ice tools and did a combination of front-pointing as well as pied troisieme). We reached the notch (elev ~ 11,960') around 1:00pm. We unroped, took crampons off and headed for the summit through the class 3 rock chute. I did a small class 4 variation by staying to climber's right 20 feet below the summit. Reached the summit at 1:25pm. Descended part of the SE chute and cut across back to Cascade Lake to pick up our camp and hiked out to Saddlebag Lake parking area.
Climbed Right Couloir with Pavel on a bone chilling day (0-10F). We were climbing with full packs with the aim to continue to the North Ridge of Conness. That did not materialize due to blizzard conditions. Descended to Conness Lakes in vanishing light and bivy'd there. Fun, only different...
this time with Misha. Pretty cold but good quality ice.
Didn't make conness the previous day so we walked this one as a consolation prize.
Climbed first 2 pitches with Chief on perfect alpine ice and enjoyed my first official ice lead on P2. Absolutely awesome! No need to summit, I was completely satisfied with the ice climb. :)
Climbed with Kovarpa. We did it in 4 pitches from the bergschrund with a 60m rope. We were the only ones climbing it that day. Lots of dinnerplating, but otherwise a nice climb.
Did a solo climb of North Peak / Conness. NW Ridge was fun, although relatively short, with few challenges. Beautiful views. Summited at around 9 AM and after 1/2 hr. break went to the N.Ridge of Conness.
with Kris. Turned out to be a nice day after an ugly morning...
Headed back for a second shot at the North (Right) Couloir with TRADaROCKiss. Climbed it in 4 pitches in perfect weather! With nightfall rapidly approaching, we decided to head for the car rather than scramble to the summit. Fun climb and great day in the mountains!
Route Climbed: North (Right) Couloir
Date Climbed: Sept 21 2007
Attempted a climb of the North Couloir with TRADaROCKiss. Didn't make it far, but still had a great day!
Fun scramble. Awesome views the whole way. The sun kept burning the clouds away from the summit so it was nice and sunny.
Sweet little scramble.
Nice day on the North Ridge...
Good snow climb, now can't wait for the ice...
up the north couloir with a fresh dusting of snow
Tried this north couloir route twice. first time resulted in a 900 foot tumble. Returned later to try again and succeeded.
My first real ice climb, great fun, left me wanting more.....
Day hike from Saddle Bag Lake. Very enjoyable scramble. First time on exposed class 4. Thanks to Misha & co. for coaching me over trickiest section. Descended south side. Next time link with North Ridge of Conness!
The NW Ridge is a fun scramble, wish the technical section was longer. From the summit fired on over to the North Ridge of North Peak.
Climbed the center couloir in excellent conditions
Beginning of the traverse to NR of Conness. Climbed with Vendulka, Misha and Etsuko. Great day.
Climbed with Barry Beck and our friend D.Rod via the entertaining North Ridge. We were on the way to the N.Ridge of Conness, so we didn't tarry on the summit. This was my first peak since getting an ACL replaced a year before --- thanks Dr. Cummings & Tahoe Fracture!