Swapped leads with Chris Gibson -- 3.5 pitches of good ice !
Route climbed: NW Ridge
Date climbed: 15-September-2010
Did whole thing this time. Beautiful late summer day.
Date climbed: 5-July-2008
Route climbed: NW Ridge (sort of)
Hiked up to the glacier to check out the couloirs, took some pics, then traversed over and across suncupped snowfield to what I think was the 'second impasse' (see route page).
Straightforward third class up to ridge. I didn't feel up to staying on the ridge itself (left leg is still weak and shaky), so I traversed right to something that felt more like third, then did the rest of the slog to the summit.
Flawless day. From the summit saw some guys heading down the right couloir on skis.
Route climbed: Left couloir
Date climbed: 30-Sept-2006
Soloed left couloir on good neve, to about 45-ish degrees. Two sections in the upper part were melted out - these seemed about third class in current conditions. Slogged on sand up from left couloir exit to summit scramble and took the class 3 easy way up to the southwest face. On top by 9:15am.
Amazingly, the bottom half of the right couloir still looked like neve (didn't see top half). Wanted to avoid getting caught in the weather coming in - it was gusty with clouds. Otherwise, a great day to be out.
Route climbed: Right couloir
Date climbed: 10-Sept-2006
Started from Saddlebag Lake around 5:40am, got up to glacier by 7:30, and started climbing by 8. Right couloir was completely neve - I was amazed that there was no ice at all visible.
However, the bergschrund was open all the way across the couloir, about 10-15 feet I would guess. Seemed easiest on climber's left, so up I went. Maybe 75 degrees ? (looked steeper to the right) The only ice present was at the bottom of the schrund, so the rest was solid neve, making for excellent pick placements. I would guess that if / when the couloir becomes all ice this year that this schrund will be less of an obstacle (?)
Once in the couloir conditions were excellent and laid-back neve. Possibly ice will form this year first in the runnel a bit left of center.
Got to the notch about 9:15. Headed up the rock scramble from there, and did the 'direct finish'. I initially thought this was 4th class, but maybe it was low fifth (like there's a difference :) Spicy in ice-climbing boots ... got to top around 10:25.
Saw Misha/Etsuko/Pavel's log entries, and added new notebook to register. Weather was simply impeccable and the views tremendous. Saw the third-class gully on the descent (oh well, next time :) Back to car by 12:15pm.
Route Climbed: Right Couloir
Date Climbed: 23-October-2005
Climbed with John. Arrived at the glacier around 8:30am, simuled up the first pitch (mostly neve with a few patches of ice poking through). Not much of a bergschrund this year, but what there is mostly on the left side of the couloir. Started pitching out shortly before 10 where the ice started.
I led the first pitch, John led the second, and I led the last half pitch or so, belaying off a boulder from the top. The ice was hard and brittle. Last 10-20' was neve. We had the couloir to ourselves the whole time. Weather was pretty much perfect.
Exited the couloir around 1:40. We thought about heading up the summit scramble, but by then John was more interested in getting a beer, and I figured some ice cream would top off the day pretty well.
Also climbed right couloir two other times in October 2004 (mostly good blue ice) and August 2005 (partly still snow).
Climbed with Forjan. This was my first Alpine Ice lead. We soloed the first pitch of neve and completed the climb in a total of 3-60 meter pitches. The route was in shape and a great first ice lead. We caught the 2:15 water taxi for a relaxing finish to a great day. Did it in about 10 hours with help from the boat.
Fun day hike leading some novices. Summited with Edward. Gorgeous views all the way.
Pretty reasonable route. Not quite a "pull your hair out and scream at the moon" classic. :-) None the less, a good solo route. Celebrated with Fish Tacos - how nice!
North couloir was neve on the bottom half of the route and the top half was ice with a thin strip of snow on top. Great route and area, the scramble to the top was fun too.
A fun easy hike from Saddlebag. Awesome views of Conness all the way. Great spot.
Dayhiked with derbilly, up and down the SW/SE sides.
From Saddlebag Lake. Fun dayhike.
Fun easy dayhike from Saddlebag Lake. Mt. Conness and glacier look very impressive from this route.
Got lost, scrambled up the hog in Spantiks. No ice today!
snow is super hard so ice axes were helpful!
First alpine ice climb. Turned from snow into blue ice 1/3 of the way up. Fun climb!
My partner and I just climbed the North Couloir. It was a good time and we had it to ourselves. The bergshrund was still covered. Ice on most of the route with the exception of firm snow at the very bottom (below 'shrund), a section in the middle on the right side and at the top where the angle backs off. Have fun...
Great first alpine solo. Fun easy moves with views of grandeur!
Climbed left and right north couloirs. Brought skis and snowboard (seriously both) to descend right couloir on snowboard (in ski boots, hilarious), left one on skis. Came back a week later with just snowboard, rode both left and right couloirs. Classic!
A terrific day out with DB and Double-A.
Super fun route, nice scrambling at the top. Fun couloir beneath the Class 3-4 scrambling.
good fun, as always. continued on to Conness.
Good ice and a great days - views were clear out past Half Dome to the west.
First time was July 2000. Second time I got up and down before noon with great views, clouds and nice lighting.