On Snow or dirt, a good day hike. The boat ride on the second half of the trip home is a bonus.
Crampons, surely feel strange for the first time. SInce, then I am so psyched that I get high just thinking about it. B$ took me to climb that, and I can't have enough of it...I loved using the ice-axes...(Suddenly, I felt all mighty and powerful, ego -boost)
tried to do the conness crest, but got lightninged out. what a great day though!
Did the right couloir in August (nice neve) and the left one in late September (nice neve with occasional water ice). Didn't summit in September since we had just been up there, Both are nice climbs, with the left being a bit steeper.
An excellent scramble. Headed out from Saddlebag Lake, up North Peak, across to Shepherd Crest, to Excelsior, and returning. A long day! Trip Report
Very nice couloir. Conditions range from a no crampons, step-kicking romp in spring, to a fairly strenuous two tool, front pointing outing in the late fall. Took someone this year who put on crampons below the schrund for the first time in her life. Man was she psyched after 700 feet of hard styrofoam later. Check out the 2 couloirs to the left too, middle one is ugly, but left is nice (and steep).
Also, N Ridge is good, only climbing of any consequence in a 5.8 or so 15 boulder problem coming out of a deep notch. You can probably avoid it by heading down west of the ridge a bit. Most is fun 4th class. Swing on over to N Rdige Conness for a great day.
Highly recommend this route for anyone wanting to do their first ice climb. The approach is relatively short,spectacularly beautiful and the climb itself is easy and fun with objective danger pretty low. When we did the route there was ice on the first pitch and then we moved to the left side of the couloir which had consolidated, hard pack snow, which made for faster climbing and belay set up faster by just plugging in our axes to the hilt for belay anchors. Enjoy the area, it is beatiful and stays moist late into the season when most other areas have dried up and died.