North Pembroke
Pembroke is one of Wales' most extensive and most popular climbing areas, being home to an enormous quantity of extremely high quality climbing, among some of the countries most spectacular scenery. The vast majority takes place on the area's sea cliffs, which are notorious for their difficulty and serious nature. Self rescue is rarely an option here.
The principle climbing areas are split between the
north and the
south, and despite Pembroke’s relatively small size, they differ greatly in character.
Exploration of the northern area began in the 1960s and was largely led by Colin Mortlock, whose activity was mostly confined to the northern cliffs. His climbs tended to be on the easier end of the grading spectrum, but many are of extremely high quality, and take place among some truly spectacular surroundings.
Most of the activity is centred on the sea cliffs surrounding the city of St. David’s, with well developed crags on both northern and southern coasts. Climbing crags are also present further up the coast. Routes have been recorded around Fishguard, however, owing to the particular sensitivity of the local flora and fauna in this area, they have been kept secret, and to date remain unpublished. The difficulty and seriousness of the routes can differ markedly from crag to crag, but if you look for it, there is definitely something for everyone. On certain crags, nesting birds mean that seasonal restrictions are often in force, however, access is much easier here than it is in the south, and the northern crags of Pembroke provide a good alternative to the crags of the Castlemartin Range, which are normally closed mid week.
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