North Ridge/Middle & West Truchas Combo

Page Type
New Mexico, United States, North America
Route Type:
Scramble or snow climb (seasonal)
Time Required:
A long day
Third Class

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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North Ridge/Middle & West Truchas Combo
Created On: Aug 13, 2003
Last Edited On: Aug 14, 2003


Approach from the west (see main page). Start from the Bowl above Quemado Falls, as described on the main page.

Route Description

To ascend Truchas Peak from the west, you will have to climb West Truchas (called Middle Truchas on many maps) and Middle Truchas (unnamed on many maps). Begin by heading up the North Slopes of Middle Truchas. The North Slope is really a large, steep cirque. Veer to your right (West) toward a colouir at the western edge of the north slopes. Follow this colouir (often snow filled) until it tops out on West Truchas' Northwest Ridge. Follow this ridge to the summit of West Truchas.

From the summit of West Truchas, you will be able to see Middle Truchas and Truchas Peak. Head southeast on the ridge between West Truchas and Middle Truchas for a little less than 1/2 mile until you reach Middle's summit. From the summit of Middle Truchas, head south on the ridge connecting Middle Truchas and Truchas Peak. The distance between Middle Truchas and Truchas Peak is about 1/2 mile.

NOTE: once you begin traversing the ridges between these peaks, you are very exposed to lightning, and escape is very difficult. Therefore, it is very important to get an early start and to keep an eye on the clouds. This is particularly important in the monsoon months of July and August, when afternoon thunderstorms are a regular occurrence.

Essential Gear

If there is now snow on the route, no technical gear is required. If there is snow, an ice axe is recommened.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.