North Ridge, West side

The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak, West side, as seen from near Meysan Lake. This is a Photoshop merge of 6 frames. We followed Alois Smrz route description and found it to be excellent, when he says 50' that's what it is. I am using his route description to describe these photos, you can see almost all of the route. Starting at the bottom frame.
  • Frame 1) The approach, follow a good third and forth class trail, a little below what looks like a dotted line of trees in this frame. The trail meets the ridge just below where the White Mountains in the far background of this frame disappear behind the ridge.
  • Frame 2) Third class up the ridge on clean rocks.
  • Frame 3) More third and forth class to the top of a point. This first notch is right at the boundary of frame 3 and frame 4. The rock notched out of the ridge is what makes the point. The route description below starts in the notch below this point.
  • Frame 4) Moving over to the East side of the ridge, and out of view here. From the notch, 5th class crack with fixed rope (July '08 note, fixed rope attached with small cord, OK to pull on, but weak attachment at the top). Sharp flakes (leaning slabs) 4th or 5th class downclimb to second notch.
  • Frame 5) Second tower, layback with fixed pitons, awkward offwidth, cool belay cave. This area of climbing is visible if you zoom on this frame Airy traverse. Third (little) tower, right at the top of frame.
  • Frame 6) 4th class downclimb, stretchy crack start from notch, summit pitches.
Alois Smrz offers this description:
"From the notch, go down and left some 40', climb 5th class crack slanting left. Climb 4th class pitch toward the huge, sharp flake above. Go left and down, follow ledges to gully system, which leads back up toward the crest of the ridge (3rd,4th). The ridge soon brings you to the Second Tower. From the notch, move right 50'. Climb 5th class steep face/ramp to 5.7 layback with old, fixed ring pin. Belay at a platform on the right. Move 10' right, climb awkward (5.7?) offwidth.

"Continue up for two pitches to top of the tower. Traverse along the crest of the tower. Descend to the notch. Third Tower. From the notch, move left and down into large gully (20'), climb 5th class crack/steep face to a ledge on the left side of the arete. Two more 4th class pitches up and right bring you to the crest again. Traverse along the crest. Downclimb south side of tower to notch and final summit pitches.Summit Pitches.Twenty feet left of the notch, climb up 6-8 pitches of 4th and easy 5th directly to the summit register.

"Please note: To reach the notch of all the towers, downclimb 4th class terrain, no rappelling is required."


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RayMondo - Oct 14, 2009 6:22 pm - Voted 9/10

Clever stuff

Obviously skilled to create it.

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