The north ridge starts at Twin Peaks Pass, which lies between Virginia Peak and Twin Peaks. Twin Peaks Pass is on the divide between Spiller Creek and Virginia Canyon. To get to Spiller Creek via Horse Creek Pass, see the detailed description set forth on the Matterhorn Peak page. For directions on how to get to Virginia Pass and Canyon from Green Creek, see the main Virginia Peak page.
To Twin Peaks Pass from Spiller Creek
From Horse Creek Pass, make a long diagonal upward climb below the crumbling west face of Twin Peaks. Granite slabs give way to lush grassy meadows, which eventually give way to annoying talus and scree slopes. Climbing very gradually upwards above a cliff band, continue all the way south almost to the low point of the ridge between Twin Peaks and Virginia Peak (this is almost right at the start of the north ridge of Virginia Peak). Eventually you will emerge from the annoying scree slope and come onto grassy slopes that lead to the saddle.
To Twin Peaks Pass from Virginia Pass
Virginia Pass actually has two notches at the top. The trail heads to the southern notch, but to get to Twin Peaks Pass, it is easier to take the northern notch. Near the top of Virginia Pass on the east side, leave the use trail and head to your right under some cliffs towards a small tarn. This tarn is shown on the 7.5 minute topo here
. From the tarn, climb through a thick but small stand of trees and head to the northern notch right above the tarn. From the notch, make a long diagonal descent to your right to the head of Virginia Canyon. You will see a waterfall draining the north side of Virginia Peak -- aim for that waterfall. Climb up the slabs to the left of the waterfall, using two well-placed seams to keep the difficulty to class 2. Once above the waterfall, there is a large lake with a talus slope above it. Climb this slope to the top (Twin Peaks Pass).
From Twin Peaks Pass, the route is obvious -- just head up the ridge. It is only 500 feet of class 2 scrambling to get to the flat summit. Enjoy the views and head back down the way you came.
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