Did it with Chris Wenker the day before Lizard Head as a warm-up, but our feet got cold. We did not expect that much snow on the route, so had only sneakers, which obviously got completely wet.
We descended down to Kilpacker - nice south and sunny side.
Climbed this route solo with a thin snow layer covering the route. Fun stuff.
Climbed North Slopes 2 days after first snow of the season. Abandoned plan for the traverse, instead descended some 4th class, ad hoc, uncairned variation of the South Slopes into Kilpacker.
Ascended North Couloir on questionable snow (got soft really quick), summited and descended the North Face. I'll never ascend/descend the North Face again. Too dangerous. Partner almost had his leg severed in half by a dislodged boulder.
excellent cramponing snow, but the ridge was rotting ice I stuck to the rock, mark stayed on the snow, made it at the same time.
People have died in the gulley, I found the scrambling on the "Central Rib" (right of the main gulley) to be about Class 2+. My brother Dirk and I did this in about 45 minutes from below the basin, one of our fastest summit pushes to be sure! I highly recommend this route unless you have time for the West Ridge which looks nice.