North Summits Traverse (bypass)

North Summits Traverse (bypass)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 40.65700°N / 111.77°W
Additional Information Route Type: Scramble, Basic Snow Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Class 3-4
Sign the Climber's Log


The route described begins at the higher south summit of Mt Olympus and ends at the top of the West Ridge. Most of the day is spent reaching and descending from the summits of the mountain.

Route Description

Total Distance: TBA
Total Elevation: TBA

Time between summits: 30-40 min

From the main summit, head west of the ridge. After about 50-100 ft you should be able to downclimb to the north a little and then traverse back to the east. At the end of this short descending traverse, you will enter a wide chute that drops straight down to the saddle below.
From the saddle, travel north until the cliffs are reached. Descend to the west while staying along the base of the cliffs. After about 300 ft there will be a break in the cliffs. It is not possible to descend to the next chute from this break. Instead, drop down another 50 ft to a large platform with a huge boulder resting on it. The downclimb is class 3 if chosen carefully. I ended up taking a way that was class 4.
From this platform, head north. While slightly ascending, once can easily find a series of ledges and chimneys that cut through the many ribs of the northern summits.
Continue traversing until a large chute is reached. The cliffs on the far side are very pronounced and the chute is mostly clear of vegetation and irregular rocks. Head up this class 2 chute to gain the northern-most summit (class 2) and the highest north summit (class 4, via a steep chimney). Head up the last small chute encountered before this one to gain the highest north summit via the class 3 variation.

Descent: Depending on which direction you go, either the Mount Olympus Trail or the West Ridge

Essential Gear

10 Essentials, a good pair of boots. Rockfall is negligible, so a helmet is not needed.
Winter: Snowshoes a must in the winter due to the northern and shaded aspects. Unless you descend the east or west chutes from the saddle, a beacon is probably not needed.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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