A note from the SP Staff
IN MEMORY OF RAHEL MARIA LIU
Rahel Maria Liu died tragically during an attempted climb of the Innominata spur on the southern (Italian) face of Mont Blanc in August of 2004. Rahel was a charter member during SP's early days, and her work here remains among the best of SP's collected contributions. Her knowledge and experience has made an impact on the world mountaineering community, and her warmth and friendship will be long remembered among her many friends and fellow members here at SummitPost. She will be greatly missed by us all.
A rather small North face, nevertheless it provides the ice climber with a demanding, steep North-West face. Quite often the face has excellent conditions and is climbable even late in the year as well. It has an average angle of about 55°. The icenose at the route's exit is about 80° steep (the icenose can easily be avoided)! The Brochkogel North-West face is part of the Pitztal Ice-express
, wich provides the climber in 1250 meters of ice climbing by combining the Taschach North face
, Petersenspitze North face
, Brochkogel North-West face
and the Wildspitze North face
. The Brochkogel North-West face can be reached either from Breslauerhütte, Taschachhaus or, shortest, by taking Pitztal cable car to Mittelbergjoch. The Brochkogel North-West face is one of the best climbs in the area and is popular throughout the year! It is recommendable for both beginners of northface-climbing and more experienced ice-climbers.
The beautifull North-West face rises above the Petersenspitze.
There are three options for the approach:
1. From the Breslauerhütte
Starting point is of course the Breslauerhütte on 2840m. From the hut in northwestern direction on a marked path to the Mitterkarferner. Then to the Mitterkarjoch (3468m) and on to the uppermost part of the Taschachferner. Go around the Hinterer Brochkogel by heading in northwest direction. After you get passed the North ridge
you can climb to the start of the route in the middle of the face.
About 2 hours from the hut to the base of the face.
2. From the Taschachhaus
This approach is much longer! From the hut descent about 50 meters and traverse to the Taschachferner. Follow the Taschachferner in his complete lenght all the way up to the base of the North-West face of the Brochkogel. After fresh snow the traverse of the Taschachhaus to the Taschachferner is strongly exposed to avanlanches! Watch out for crevasses on the Taschachferner!
About 3 hours from the hut to the base of the face.
3. From the Pitztal ski area
Take the cable car of the Pitztaler glaciar ski area
all the way up to the Mittelbergjoch. Descent on the Taschachferner and climb up to the Hinterer Brochkogel.
About 1 - 1,5 hours from the Mittelbergjoch to the base of the face.
* For more information on the mountain huts and the approach, see the excellent Hinterer-Brochkogel page
Climbing halfway of the face.
Start in the middle of the face's base and cross the bergschrund (maybe difficult at the end of a hot summer). The face has a regular steepness without seracs. You go directly to the summit through the middle of the face and climb the icenose, up to 80°. Or you climb around the icenose, best way is to go left, this way the steepness doesn't get above 55°. The upper part of the face is mostly pure hard ice, even in winter and spring time. The first part is mostly snow covered. The face is 250 meters high and can be climbing (if you use a rope) in 5-6 pitches.
Over the south-east ridge (normal route) to Mitterkarjoch (30min). The descent can be tricky (ice covered rocks or dangerous corniches) in winter and spring time! Alternative can be to descent on to the Vernagt glacier and descent to the Vernagthütte or climb back to the Brochkogeljoch (3423m.).
2 ice-axes, crampons, rope, ice screws, quickdrawns. In winter and spring time ski's or snowshoes are recommended for the approach.
External Links www.lawine.at
- Avalance bulletin for Tyrol.
- Weather forecast of the Austrian Alpine Club.
- Website of the Pitztaler glacier ski are.
- Website of the Taschach mountain hut. Excellent Winterroom!
- Website of the Breslauer mountain hut.