North West ridge (normal route)

Page Type
Trentino, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Glaceir ascent. Steep snow covered slope. Snow rid
Time Required:
One to two days
F+/PD-, I+ (UIAA)

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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North West ridge (normal route)
Created On: Feb 13, 2005
Last Edited On: Feb 13, 2005


From Val Borzago parking (reached from Valli giudicarie) it's necessary to reach Rifugio Carè Alto in 2/3 hours. Then, go up along the Valley of Lares and Niscli to reach the glacier near the Sella Niscli. There is some indication on rocks along the trail. You need other 3 hours to reach the glacier.

Route Description

Go up along the glacier in the direction of our peak in South direction. You arrive at the last snow/ice slope. It's necessary to start the climb on the right side. In the centre the slope is too steep (50°). When the slope is finished, you reach the ridge and you have to turn left climb on rocks or snow till a secondary peak. From this peak and the top there are 20 meters. You turn right and start climb the rock wall in the direction of the iron cross to the top. You need 2/3 from the begin of the glacier.

Essential Gear

Normal rope (50m?) for the glacier. Crampons, Ice axe, some ice nail.

Miscellaneous Info

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