North West ridge (normal route)
Page Type Route
Location: Trentino, Italy, Europe
Lat/Lon: Route Type: Glaceir ascent. Steep snow covered slope. Snow rid
Time Required: One to two days
Difficulty: F+/PD-, I+ (UIAA)
Route Quality: 4 Votes
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Table of Contents
Approach
From Val Borzago parking (reached from Valli giudicarie) it's necessary to reach Rifugio Carè Alto in 2/3 hours. Then, go up along the Valley of Lares and Niscli to reach the glacier near the Sella Niscli. There is some indication on rocks along the trail. You need other 3 hours to reach the glacier.
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Route Description
Go up along the glacier in the direction of our peak in South direction. You arrive at the last snow/ice slope. It's necessary to start the climb on the right side. In the centre the slope is too steep (50°). When the slope is finished, you reach the ridge and you have to turn left climb on rocks or snow till a secondary peak. From this peak and the top there are 20 meters. You turn right and start climb the rock wall in the direction of the iron cross to the top. You need 2/3 from the begin of the glacier.
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Essential Gear
Normal rope (50m?) for the glacier. Crampons, Ice axe, some ice nail.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
At the top of our peak...
At the top of our peak...
On the North West ridge of...
On the North West ridge of...
On the steep (45°) slope. But...
On the steep (45°) slope. But...
The ridge already climbed. On...
The ridge already climbed. On...
On the North west ridge there...
On the North west ridge there...
Lares glacier is the...
Lares glacier is the...
The river crossing to reach...
The river crossing to reach...
Near the top of Monte Carè...
Near the top of Monte Carè...
The last rock wall ( Carla...
The last rock wall ( Carla...
The track of the North West...
The track of the North West...
Now it's possble to see our...
Now it's possble to see our...
At the beginning of the...
At the beginning of the...
Starting the normal route...
Starting the normal route...
little pool in the ablation...
little pool in the ablation...
The normal route from Val...
The normal route from Val...
North West ridge (normal route)
Route
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