Northeast Buttress - Bypass

Access

Drive Nesakwatch Creek FSR approx 5km to trailhead. TH is marked by a sign with the word 'Slesse' engraved. This is the Slesse Memorial Trail.

Getting There

Follow the Slesse Memorial Trail accros Nesakwatch creek and up an old logging road. Pass a plaque/veiwpoint and continue to the Propellor Cairn.

Route Description

Approach:
From Propeller Cairn at the end of the 'Slesse Memorial Trail' make a descending traverse across slabs towards a prominent notch in the East Buttress. Look out for ice blocks that can fall from above and 'ball bearing' rocks on the slabs.
Ascend into the 'notch' (class 3) and downclimb/rappel to the pocket glacier cirque. The downclimb is extremely slippery and often takes parties longer than rappelling. Many trees on the right (east) side of the notch can be used for rappel.
Once in the 'bypass glacier cirque' ascend towards the top of the cirque. If the glacier is present an ice axe or 'north wall hammer' will be needed to navigate the seracs and many crevasses the glacier usually holds.
This area holds much objective danger for most of the year and parties should try to move through the cirque as quickly as possible.

Route:
From top of the 'bypass glacier cirque' ascend a prominent grassy ramp towards the Northeast buttress. There are two or three exposed moves on the ramp. Grassy Ramp: Class 3/4

The ramp joins the buttress in a treed section. Several easy pitches lead through this section. There is little exposure and the climbing consists of grassy ledges and short 4th class walls. Depending on the route you take through this section you should end up on a flat bench before a small notch in the buttress or in the notch before a prominent gendarme. This area is a good rope up point.
Treed section: class 4 (possible short low 5th)

From the notch, ledgy 4th class terrain leads around the left side of the gendarme and up near the ridge crest for a rope length. Stopping near a good belay ledge just below a slab on the crest. This is where the 5th class climbing begins.

P1: From belay ledge, climb a slab on the crest via a small switch backing ledge. There is no protection until high on the pitch where the climbing is considerably easier. From the ledge above the slab, look for sling on a tree a few feet higher. Pull up onto this next ledge and belay from one of the trees.
Run-out slab: class 5.7

P2: This is the first 'crux' on the route. Climb up to a short, prominent corner above the belay ledge. Stem up corner onto the next ledge and start climbing up a tricky ramp on the left. Partway up the ramp look for a good hold over the edge of the right-hand wall. Pull over two short walls (small pro) and then make an awkward move to the right into another corner. A short steep crack leads up to the next ledge. Climb one more short wall to a large ledge and tree belay.
Short Walls Pitch: Class 5.8+

P3: Move leftt from tree belay and up easy terrain, cross to the north side of the buttress and climb past some trees and a small bivi ledge. Continue past the bivi ledge on the right hand side and climb continuous low 5th terrain to a ledge and a 'slung block' belay.

This is where the 'direct' variation splits off from the original route. The direct route climbs steep rock to 5.9 or 5.10 on the buttress crest and is significantly cleaner than the north face option. Beta for the 'direct variation' can be obtained from 'Alpine Select' by Kevin McLane or the Beckey guide.

North Face (Original) Route: P 4-7: From 'slung block' belay, traverse right on a 3rd class ledge to a sandy ledge. Continue traversing right towards a broken rib and climb continuous 5.7 corners and ramps just left of the 'broken rib' for two pitches. This section is often wet and slimy and had some slippery grass in sections. This is not the most aesthetic section of the route.
From top of 'rib' climb an easy 'low 5th' ramp back onto the buttress crest.
North Face section: 3rd class to 5.7

P8: Climb a steep corner near the crest. A tricky layback move leads into easier terrain and eventually the huge bivi platform on the route.
Steep Corner: 5.8

Above the bivi ledge several 4th class pitches to the right of the buttress crest lead to a ledge at the base of a prominent leaning pillar with a white base. This marks the start of the famous 'summit tower' pitches.

P9: Climb cracks and corners to the right of the pillar. A short and loose vertical step provides the crux of this pitch. Above the vertical wall easy terrain leads to a good belay ledge.
White Pillar Pitch: 5.8

P10: Climb exposed, but easy terrain very near the crest with good pro. There is some rotten rock here but the climbing is easy and highly enjoyable. Near the end of the pitch a move to the right leads to a good ledge and the base of the crux.
Rotten Pillar Pitch: 5.7

P11: From belay ledge, move right into a prominent corner and climb steep, exposed 5.8 cracks to some solid flakes below a roof. A hand traverse to the left leads past an ancient bolt and around the first roof. Juggy side-pulls through steep terrain lead to a 'slot' in the overhang above. Climb past a fixed pin and through the slot (look for footholds on right) and run it out to a ledge with a slung block on the left.
Crux/Overhangs Pitch: 5.9

P 12-13: Climb more steep and exposed terrain above the belay on huge 'jug' holds. Move past an alcove and through a steep section to a tiny bivi ledge and good belay. Can be done as one or two pitches.
Exposed Juggy Pitch: 5.7

P14: Climb a short steep crack above the bivi ledge and continue up easier blocky terrain to another ledge. Class 5.8

P15: A short overhanging off width crack (good pro) leads to a big ledge. Continue past some grey, solid pillars to the summit ridge.
Final Pitch: 5.8

Descent:

From summit traverse south along the summit ridge and follow cairns into a loose gulley. Descend the gulley and traverse skiers left on ledges to a rappel block above a steep section. A 50m or two 25m rappels lead to another gulley between the mountain and a prominent gendarme. Before reaching the base of the gulley traverse skier’s right onto another good ledge. Continue traversing skier’s right along the west face of the mountain rappelling sections if necessary. Downclimb/Rappel one more gulley and then traverse and downclimb into the notch between Fraser Tower and Slesse (top of the 'North Rib' route) Descend this gulley to the moraine below the mountain. Pick up the steep descent trail on skiers right and descend to Slesse Creek Road.

Essential Gear

Full Alpine Rack, Doubles in the thin hand sizes. Small Wires. Several Slings. Crampons and Ice Axe if the Glacier is Present.

External Links

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Images

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