Northeast Buttress complete

Page Type
Route
Location:
British Columbia, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Alpine Rock
Time Required:
Two days
Difficulty:
TD+ or GradeV, 5.9ish

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Nov 26, 2002
Last Edited On: Nov 27, 2002

Approach


Follow the standard approach to the memorial at the basin of the NE ridge/face. From there drop into the basin and work your way through avalanche alder, scree (and debris from the plane accident!) towards the toe of the NE Buttress. Keep your wits about you at this point and try to get there early. We made our way up towards the climber's right of the buttress (North side) and scooted across in order to get to the base of the route. Once you are at the base you are relatively safe. However, before you get there you are threatened by the pocket glacier to your left and the glacier at the base of the northern gullies to your right. The route starts in a corner system just left (pocket glacier side) of the very toe of the route.

Route Description


The first pitch is about 5.9 and goes upwards and right towards a corner system with a belay in a clump of hanging trees. The next pitch I have no clue as I ended up freeing an old section of A2 (completely by accident and a once in a lifetime endevor I can assure you!! ~ 5.11 no pro). I think if you look a little more off to the right you will find a corner section that is supposed to go free at 5.8. Above that it is fairly straight forward with slabby crack and corner systems (about 3-4 pitches of 5.7 - slings are about the best protection as you can wrap them around handing cedars). The entire time you are edging towards the pocket glacier side. The ridge flattens out into a mellower buttress and you wander up and towards the north side now with few difficulties (~5.5). Follow that then up and back left towards the steep cedar trees. Once in these trees you then work your way up to meet again with the cutt off route. Follow the rest of the NE buttress as described with intentions of spending the night at the big ledge at the base of a fairly long section of 3rd and 4th class climbing. If you don't make it that far then be preparded to rap down to some ledges closer towards the cutt off route.

Essential Gear


One set of nuts, cams from .5 inch to 2.5 inch, about 1 dozen slings (they come in very handy lower on the ridge) and two ropes (it worked well for us). Oh, and don't forget to stack up on your water - sometimes that little snowpatch that is supposed to be where the good ledge is can be missing. We climbed our final day with 800ml of water each until we made it over the top and down to the logging road on the other side!

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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JasonCamp

JasonCamp - Nov 26, 2002 1:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Keep in mind that when you complete the mountain you are not on the same side as you started! It is best to leave a car on each side but be aware that this is an active logging area! The roads may be in active use in which case they should be in pretty good shape or they may be out of use in which case a 4X4 or more likely a tank might come in handy. You can leave a bike on one side and have that person bike around to get the car ~25km 1/2 of which is logging road but that can be a little much after the energy expended on the route -- my partner still owes me for that.... eh, Maruice? ;)

Buckaroo

Buckaroo - Nov 8, 2012 2:20 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Route Comment

The West side descent is no longer commonly done. The Crossover descent is well marked and now has a trail that goes back to the memorial.

Buckaroo

Buckaroo - Sep 25, 2008 1:44 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

""The first pitch is about 5.9 and goes upwards and right towards a corner system with a belay in a clump of hanging trees. The next pitch I have no clue as I ended up freeing an old section of A2 (completely by accident and a once in a lifetime endevor I can assure you!! ~ 5.11 no pro).""



The first pitch is a common place to get off route. The belay in the clump of hanging trees on the right is off route. The first pitch goes up and right to the first left facing dihedral just to the left of the decoy hanging tree belay. Then you go straight up the dihedral to a nice ledge belay. The dihedral looks improbable from below but it's only 5.8.

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