Northeast Couloir

Overview

This is a fun snow climb on the northeast face of Teocalli Mountain, offering 1300 feet of moderate-to-steep snow, up to 50 degrees. The route is in condition* starting mid June (we found good conditions 06/29/14).

Getting There

Via the Pearl Pass Road (high-clearance 4WD required): 1.8 miles east of Crested Butte on Hwy 135, turn northeast onto CR 738. At 2.5 miles go right at the fork. At 4.5 miles go right at the fork. At 5.6 miles go right at the fork (Pearl Pass Road). At 6.2 miles cross Brush Creek. At 8.4 miles cross Middle Brush Creek. At 11.7 miles turn left at a spur. Immediately cross the creek and park near a sign at 11.8 miles (38.954426,-106.859250).

Approach

From the parking area, follow the fading road and faint trail, picking up a good trail after ~0.2 miles (38.957027,-106.859046). Follow this trail to the northwest. After 1 mile (from the parking area), leave the trail and hike west through meadow and willows. Cross the creek, turn southwest, and bushwhack through willows and new growth to reach the talus field at the base of the northeast face (38.963296,-106.874464). The Northeast Couloir** is the prominent line which goes directly towards the summit.

Route Description

Climb the apron and continue on 40-45 degree snow as the couloir narrows, passing a few brief sections of steeper snow up to 50 degrees. If the snow is melted out where the angle relents around 12800', it may be possible to keep it continuous by hugging the left side. Climb a steep step onto the ridge and go west to the summit.

Essential Gear

Mountaineering axe, sturdy boots, crampons.

Notes

* hard packed snow when climbed around sunrise.

** this couloir needs a name! If you know it, please let me know!

Images

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