Northeast Face, Left

Shirley napping...I mean belaying me... atop P4 of Northeast Face, Left of Warbonnet. This steep (crux!!) pitch deposits you at the mouth of the INCORRECT chimney. From this position, a 50 foot rightward traverse is required to reach the CORRECT chimney (see subsequent photos, August 2, 2004).

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Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Aug 11, 2004 4:38 pm - Voted 10/10

Interesting anchor placement.

If you fell here wouldn't she get jerked off the ledge and the anchor get shock loaded by both of your falls? Or is there another piece near her that I can't see.



Just curious. Nice photo, BTW.

rpc

rpc - Aug 11, 2004 4:46 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Interesting anchor placement.

Thanks Martin.

Yeah, there's a 3rd piece (yellow Camalot) hiding behind the main knot and the purple biner.....even that is not that ideal but best we could do under the circumstances.....wet mossy cracks in crumbly, lichen covered rock...questionable anchor.

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