Northeast Face of Chimney Rock, select routes

Northeast Face of Chimney Rock, select routes

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 34.01668°N / 116.16072°W
Route Type: Trad Climbing
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required: Half a day
Difficulty: 5.8, 10a,11a
Number of Pitches: 1

Overview

Select routes of the northeast face
Joshua Trees at sunset

Chimney Rock is the southern most member of the group of formations that surround Hidden Valley Campground in Joshua Tree National Park's, California. Depending on how you approach this rock, you will have to pass through or go near a campsite. It is a good idea to be courteous to and considerate toward the campers, if they are present. It is also possible to avoid going near any campsites entirely if you are approaching the routes of the northeast face. Follow the path that heads toward The Wall then circle back toward the northeast face of Chimney Rock. This face gets a little sun early in the morning, then it stays in the shade for the rest of the day.


The Northeast face of Chimney Rock is pretty much hidden from the view if you are walking around Hidden Valley Campground. It is mostly the west face of this formation that gets the lion's share of attention. The northeast face, however, may be considered as a good hiding place right in the middle of a crowded neighborhood. This eighty foot face offers a variety of routes from 5.8 to 12c. The route that stands out the most is called "Blind Ambition," rated 11a. Unfortunately, Blind Ambition's difficulty puts it out of the reach of most climbers. For climbers with more moderate ambitions, there are "The Flue, 5.8" and "Raven's Reach, 10a" to keep them busy for a few hours. These three select routes end on a slopping ledge with a two-bolt anchor. This anchor provides the best and the safest descent from the top.

Essential Equipment: One sixty meter rope, standard rack, slings.
Descend Rappel from a two-bolt anchor on top.
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select routes of Northeast face of Chimney Rock
AThe Flue, 5.8, standard Rack
BBlind Ambition, 11a, bolts and standard Rack
CRaven's Reach, 10a, Standard Rack



Left side
Northeast face of Chimney Rock
Right Side


Getting There

Chimney Rock




From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park drive on Park Boulevard, formerly known as Quail Springs Road, for about nine miles to a major rock formation called “Intersection Rock.” Intersection Rock is a major landmark on the north side of Park Boulevard with ample parking for visitors and climbers alike. This rock, true to its name, sit at the cross roads to Hidden Valley Campground, Barker Dam Road and the road to Day use and picnic area. Chimney Rock is located across the parking lot from Intersection Rock, and may be identified by its very large chimney or a very promominent hole on it west face. Park here and walk into the campground. Find the loop trail that heads toward a long formation known as The Wall, then circle back toward the east face of Chimney Rock.

Route Description


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Essential Gear


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External Links


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