kevbauer - Jun 20, 2022 5:58 am Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2022
My First 14er!
A trip with my dad and his buddy Wayne...Mosquitoes were terrible all the way to Finger lake, where we camped. Crossed the glacier and climbed the red rock to the main chute. Windy at the top, but awesome views. Very windy and cold, with snow on the descent...Awesome climb!
MBFN - Jul 14, 2018 6:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2018
Day tripping
Started at the glacier lodge campground at 5:30am. Got back at 6:10pm. Pretty tough day hike.
Blackmouth - Aug 30, 2017 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2017
Final 14er
Camped at the tarn lake above Finger Lake. I highly recommend this spot. Saves you time on summit day and you can see your entire route from camp. Used my ice axe and crampons on the glacier and went up the red band route. All the info and trip reports here on Summitpost were very helpful. Now it's time to make some more climbing goals.
Diesel - Oct 26, 2015 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2015
To Middle Palidade and back
South Fork to the moraine. The bouldering section from Finger Lake to moraine was not fun. I got up on the mountain via the ledge on the left side.
Deb - Aug 5, 2013 9:43 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2013
Stellar Dayhike!
Hiked in with Tony and his bad knee; he waited at base 2.5 hrs for me to hit summit and back. Totally loved this route; would definitely do again!
The only way we found the start to Secor's chute was with GPS coordinates. River crossing was really low this year so we rock-hopped across. Camped by a tarn 11,300 ft up with strong winds. All in all a great climb in a beautiful wilderness area.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 28, 2011 4:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2010
Dayhike via the NE Face route with 3 others. We caught alpenglow views from Finger Lake, and we never saw a single cloud the entire day. No one else was on the route, and there was negligible wind on the summit. AND we were back down in time for dinner and beer.
skotty - Jul 8, 2008 12:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2008
Good birthday, 11th 14er
I think this is the route I did. WIth so many names be tossed around, I can't be so sure. Everything I read made this seem like such an elusive rout finding challange, but to my surprise, I had no touble at all finding and staying on route. Hook right at the tarn to go up the talus slope, at the top, cut left along the obvious ridge that runs parallel to the face of Middle Pal, turn 90 degrees right at the intersecting ridge formed by the moraine and head stragight for the face. Where it deadends at the face, you can either go up a very steep and loos ramp to the right following the extremely obvious red rock, or go left across the top right corner of the left glacier. I chose the later; it was only about 25 feet of low angle sun-cups that I had no problem booting across with trecking poles. When you hit the face, look right and there is an obvious chimney that is easily climbed. From there just go straight up to the summit. At the summit you'll find an awkward north facing crack about chest high that leads to the summit can.
kevbauer - Jun 20, 2022 5:58 am Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2022
My First 14er!A trip with my dad and his buddy Wayne...Mosquitoes were terrible all the way to Finger lake, where we camped. Crossed the glacier and climbed the red rock to the main chute. Windy at the top, but awesome views. Very windy and cold, with snow on the descent...Awesome climb!
MBFN - Jul 14, 2018 6:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2018
Day trippingStarted at the glacier lodge campground at 5:30am. Got back at 6:10pm. Pretty tough day hike.
Blackmouth - Aug 30, 2017 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2017
Final 14erCamped at the tarn lake above Finger Lake. I highly recommend this spot. Saves you time on summit day and you can see your entire route from camp. Used my ice axe and crampons on the glacier and went up the red band route. All the info and trip reports here on Summitpost were very helpful. Now it's time to make some more climbing goals.
Diesel - Oct 26, 2015 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2015
To Middle Palidade and backSouth Fork to the moraine. The bouldering section from Finger Lake to moraine was not fun. I got up on the mountain via the ledge on the left side.
Deb - Aug 5, 2013 9:43 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2013
Stellar Dayhike!Hiked in with Tony and his bad knee; he waited at base 2.5 hrs for me to hit summit and back. Totally loved this route; would definitely do again!
iditarod81 - Jul 7, 2013 10:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013
BeautifulThe only way we found the start to Secor's chute was with GPS coordinates. River crossing was really low this year so we rock-hopped across. Camped by a tarn 11,300 ft up with strong winds. All in all a great climb in a beautiful wilderness area.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 28, 2011 4:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2010
dayhikeDayhike with Chad
granjero - Apr 24, 2011 3:26 pm Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2011
World class gem...of a snowboard descent! five star mixed climb, five star descent. phenonmenal day in mountains with friends.
GigaMike - Feb 8, 2011 1:35 pm
LOOSESomeone should bring a broom up and sweep this route...then it would be great.
Gumbie - Oct 1, 2010 8:40 am
5/5 starsLoose, long, dangerous. Full value, esp at 3d class.
PellucidWombat - Sep 27, 2009 5:41 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2009
Perfect DayDayhike via the NE Face route with 3 others. We caught alpenglow views from Finger Lake, and we never saw a single cloud the entire day. No one else was on the route, and there was negligible wind on the summit. AND we were back down in time for dinner and beer.
Perfect!
sierrasclimber - Apr 7, 2009 10:27 pm
Class 4Would call harder than 3rd for sure especially if snow is in center of gully.
mdostby - Oct 30, 2008 7:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2001
NE FaceWow! All I can say is "what a day"!
Sierra Ledge Rat - Jul 18, 2008 12:09 am
1978: NE FaceThe summit ridge is awesome!
skotty - Jul 8, 2008 12:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2008
Good birthday, 11th 14erI think this is the route I did. WIth so many names be tossed around, I can't be so sure. Everything I read made this seem like such an elusive rout finding challange, but to my surprise, I had no touble at all finding and staying on route. Hook right at the tarn to go up the talus slope, at the top, cut left along the obvious ridge that runs parallel to the face of Middle Pal, turn 90 degrees right at the intersecting ridge formed by the moraine and head stragight for the face. Where it deadends at the face, you can either go up a very steep and loos ramp to the right following the extremely obvious red rock, or go left across the top right corner of the left glacier. I chose the later; it was only about 25 feet of low angle sun-cups that I had no problem booting across with trecking poles. When you hit the face, look right and there is an obvious chimney that is easily climbed. From there just go straight up to the summit. At the summit you'll find an awkward north facing crack about chest high that leads to the summit can.