Route Climbed: NorthEast Ridge Date Climbed: September-October 1994
In 1994, 8 climbing buddies from Southern California decided to put their irregular lives aside, and attempt to climb one of the tallest mountains on earth. We all climbed in the Sierra, Alaska, South America and Asia, but thought, that we might as well try something big. We picked Dhaulagiri 1 because the route on the NE Ridge seemed like a good mountaineering outing. We left LA in August 94 and on October 3rd, Rich Henke and Rick Taylor summited. On October 4th Brian Johnson and Rob Green went to the top as well. They were the 10th-13th Americans to summit this giant. On October 6th, I went to the high camp where I barely survived a huge wind storm and the summit window closed. Ken Brameld and Dave Custer arrived at the hight camp next day and climbed to 8,000 meters by 9am. But the winds were so strong, they couldn't even crawl. Peter Green unfortunately got sick with stomach problems and didn't go beyond camp 2. This was very succesful trip, because none of us had any prior 8,000 meter peak experience, but we all pulled together and REALLY worked as a team. We climbed without oxygen and/or sherpa support and in capsule style. We came back with the summit, huge memories and stronger friendships. Isn't that what climbing is about?
PS. This was self organized and led expedition. We took two years to organize the trip. It cost us $3.900 per person, including the airfare but not the $8,000 permit or common gear, which we paid for by selling thousands of T-shirts and giving many slide shows in Southern California. For those, thinking that a small, privately funded, self propelled group cannot organize a trip like this, I offer the above. Most regular routes on 8.000 meter peaks can be climbed by a good, committed weekend alpinists. We did it and so can you.
PPS. Participants were: Rich Henke (CA), Alois Smrz (CA), Peter Green (CA), Rick Taylor (CA), Ken Brumeld (CA), Brian Johnson (CA), Rob Green (CA), Dave Custer (CO).