Northeast Ridge

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 37.36810°N / 118.767°W
Route Type: rock climbing
Time Required: Half a day
Difficulty: Class 4

Approach


This is the ridge ( buttress ) that ascends from left to right and is left of the North Arete. From Dade Lake, climb up scree and slabs to the notch at the left end of the ridge. In heavy snow years some snow may be encountered.

Route Description


Climb the ridge ( mostly class 2 -3 ) to a large tower which is passed on its left ( south ) side. When the ridge begins merging with the Northeast Face, stay a good ways below the North Arete and traverse south and up to the summit. This last section has some class 4 climbing. Climbing to the North Arete to soon ( to far north ) will increase both difficulties, exposure and excitement!
Descend the Northwest side ( Ulrichs Route ).
This is an excellent route - one of the 100 Classics of the High Sierra!

Essential Gear


While many climbers could climb this route unroped, I recommend a spartan rock rack, a few runners and at least a 9mm rope for most climbers. Ice axes may be needed for both the approach and descent in heavy snow years.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-6 of 6

zcando

zcando - Oct 16, 2002 10:16 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Climbed BCS last summer via NE ridge. Would have been easier to summit if traverse south had been made prior to meeting N arete at the ridge top. My recommendation is to to traverse South about 300 feet below the summit ridge and meet the summit without accessing the summit ridge until the end. Any questions feel free to email me. Otherwise a very cool climb. ZCANDO@COX.NET

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Oct 16, 2002 11:45 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

This is what I was trying to say, and I totally agree.

astroman - Oct 18, 2002 9:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

I must say you nailed it right on the nose. I would like to add that if for some reason you decide to let your pack fall down to the snowy slope 300 ft below you, make sure you don't have your rappelling rope in it. Its kind of hard to rappel when your rope is already at the bottom of the mountain! Sound familiar ZCANDO??

other than that, its a beautiful climb!

zcando

zcando - Oct 22, 2002 10:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Who dropped the pack?

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Aug 3, 2005 5:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Except it isn't class 4 if you cut up to the ridge - just pointing that out Eric. And no doubt not the way Norman Clyde did the solo first ascent either.

Eric O

Eric O - Aug 11, 2005 11:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Hmm... if there isn't an alternative to that one layback/hand/fist crack in that corner, then you're right! Thanks, Craig.

Viewing: 1-6 of 6