Northeast Ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 36.76730°N / 118.3725°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Rock, Mixed when snow-covered
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.6
Sign the Climber's Log


Head out on Kearsarge Pass trail; right when you reach Big Pothole Lake go Southwest to the beginning of Northeast ridge (the beginning of the ridge is obvious, but consult photos for further detail) - this is the beginning of the climb. I grateful to Bob Rockwell, of China Lake Mountain Rescue, for information on this route.

Route Description

The route stay directly on the prominent NE Ridge. About 1 pitches of 5.2, 2 of 5.4, and 2 of 5.3 gets you to the summit pinnacle. The summit block is 30' of unprotectable 5.6 friction slabwhich gets progressively harder until the crux; the only way to make a sound belay is to have two people belay the leader from the east and west of the summitblock simultaneously, resulting in something like a keelhaul, if he happens to slip. There is a 1/4" bolt, and hanger, which is sound, for a rappell and an old bolt which should be avoided.
One way to get off the route, which is very fast, is to rappell off the NW face; this can cost you a couple of slings, but one pitch gets you down to scree, or snow, which you can hike back to Kearsarge Pass.

Essential Gear

Rope, alpine rack, a bunch of slings.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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