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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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48.20800°N / 121.417°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Grade II, class 5.4 |
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Approach
Please see main White Chuck Mountain page for approach description.
Route Description
This is an obscure but excellent route that packs a lot of variety into a small package. The route name is a bit of a misnomer. Rather than ascending the length of the Northeast Ridge (which looks great) it climbs a steep gully on the north face intersecting the northeast ridge only a few hundred feet from its top.
From the large basin on the north side of the peak cross the pocket glacier to it’s highest point below a steep bowl. Crevasses are easily avoided. Ascend the bowl directly, climbing 600’ of compact 3rd and 4th class slabs. The crest of the northeast ridge is met just below a smooth wall which is climbed via a broken crack system to easier ground. This pitch has been rated anywhere from 5.2 to 5.6. Continue along the crest of the ridge to its intersection with the northwest ridge several hundred feet before the summit. A short down climb on the other side leads to the standard northwest route.
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Essential Gear
Small rack to 3".
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.