Climbed BCS last summer via NE ridge. Would have been easier to summit if traverse south had been made prior to meeting N arete at the ridge top. My recommendation is to to traverse South about 300 feet below the summit ridge and meet the summit without accessing the summit ridge until the end. Any questions feel free to email me. Otherwise a very cool climb. ZCANDO@COX.NET
This is what I was trying to say, and I totally agree.
I must say you nailed it right on the nose. I would like to add that if for some reason you decide to let your pack fall down to the snowy slope 300 ft below you, make sure you don't have your rappelling rope in it. Its kind of hard to rappel when your rope is already at the bottom of the mountain! Sound familiar ZCANDO??
other than that, its a beautiful climb!
Who dropped the pack?
Except it isn't class 4 if you cut up to the ridge - just pointing that out Eric. And no doubt not the way Norman Clyde did the solo first ascent either.
Hmm... if there isn't an alternative to that one layback/hand/fist crack in that corner, then you're right! Thanks, Craig.
I tended to stay closer to the North Arete and even talked to climbers on it. I even went right of the tower and ended up gaining the upper North Arete a hundred meters or so before the summit. It was really enjoyable climbing the whole way. If you're OK with the exposure, there aren't any hard moves. There are so many options on this route. I often opted for easy 5th class climbing just for adventure and encountered no loose or unstable rock. Where the climbers were rappelling from the summit, I downclimed to a 30' offwidth, which I then downclimbed in running shorts. Not a lot of fun, but a challenge to do it in good style.
I had to park about a half mile from the trailhead, due to so much traffic. 7 hours, 4,000' vertical, 12 miles.