Northface (Wiener Route)

Page Type
Wallis (Weissmies), Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Ice Climb
Time Required:
A long day
S+, 60° (Biner); G 10 (Waeber), SS (Vaucher), 70° (Vanis)

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Northface (Wiener Route)
Created On: Dec 13, 2001
Last Edited On: May 28, 2002


From the bivuoac hut (3014m) you need about 1 hour to the foot of the northface (3200m), traversing the glacier.

Route Description

Total high of the northface: 750m. The first 200m are very easy, 40° steep until a rock isle. Passing the rock isle by the right because of falling ice pieces on the left side (we did it; Vanis: on the left side of the rock isle). From the rock isle it is getting steeper and steeper until 60°. With the sun shining directly into the face at late morning, ice and snow like little avalanches fall from the left and the right side. It ist objectively dangerous at that time. You must be quick. At the end you have two options, either to the left, the so called "Nervenquergang", a very difficult passage, which leads to the summit, or directly leaving the northface to the NW-ridge which is the easier way. The easiest way down: normal route to the Weissmieshütte and Saas Grund.

Essential Gear

2 ice axes, crampons, rope, firnanchor (using of icescrews not really possible).