Northwest Books

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
I, 5.6

Route Quality: 8 Votes

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Page By:
Northwest Books
Created On: Sep 25, 2003
Last Edited On: Sep 25, 2007

Approach

Approach from the paved parking lot (obvious & adjacent to the Tioga Pass Road) at the base of the west face. Contour up and left along the base of the northwest face.

Nice outhouses are located near the ample parking lot.
There are also picnic tables...plus many gawkers.

The Tuolumne Meadows campground, general store, climbing shop & pay phones are within easy walking distance.

Route Description

Route starts below an orange-splotched area on the northwest face. Scramble up a third-class crack to a shrub, which is the first belay.

Pitch 1: Starts up a face, then a 5.5 mantle followed by a 5.6 layback.

Pitch 2: Traverse slightly to the right across the face (1 bolt) then follow the 5.6 crack. Variation: a 5.9 layback somewhat off to the left of the 5.6 crack.

There is an optional belay ledge where these 2 lines meet (pitch 2b), or you may proceed past this ledge to a 5.6 hand & fist crack that leads to an ledge to the right, below a large orange splotch.

Pitch 3: may proceed to the right to finish the climb with a walk-down the south or east face of the dome. Or, a variation is to the left of the large orange splotch, up past a block, then finishing at an erratic. Descent is the same: a walk down the south or east slopes....whatever way looks enticing.


Those choosing to summit can simply unrope & walk up the slope.




DESCENT:
Don't slip on the descent or you will be sandpapered to death.
Start praying if it begins to rain & you are on the slippery slopes...they turn into waterfalls & rivers.


atthecrux helpfully comments: "For an easier descent than what most guide books recommend gain the summit and walk to the east (skiers left) down slabs and aim for the trees. It leads down close to the road where you skirt the bottom of Lembert back to the parking lot. It's longer but if you have someone who doesn't like to be unroped or bad weather, it's safer."

Essential Gear

Standard rack.
There are 2 bolts on the route: 1 on pitch 1; 1 on pitch 2.
Rope: 50 meter is OK.

Miscellaneous Info

Great view of the Meadows.

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-3 of 3

atthecrux

atthecrux - Sep 21, 2007 8:25 pm - Hasn't voted

OPTIONAL DESCENT

For an easier descent than what most guide books recommend gain the summit and walk to the east (skiers left) down slabs and aim for the trees. It leads down close to the road where you skirt the bottom of Lembert back to the parking lot. It's longer but if you have someone who doesn't like to be unroped or bad weather, it's safer.

Sharon

Sharon - Sep 25, 2007 4:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Thanks!

Thanks for the descent suggestion! I've copied & pasted it into the main page so people will be sure not to miss it.

rhyang

rhyang - Jul 14, 2009 2:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Only one bolt now ..

There is no longer a bolt on the second pitch -- I'm not sure when it was chopped, but the supertopo guide doesn't show it.

Viewing: 1-3 of 3









Northwest Books

Route
6 Images 18 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 3 Additions & Corrections

Geography

MyTopo Map Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in California

Parents

Lembert DomeRoutes