Northwest Couloir

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 39.77790°N / 106.35719°W
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Skiing
Seasons Season: Spring
Additional Information Time Required: One to two days
Additional Information Difficulty: Steep Snow
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

This is a fun snow climb on the northwest face of Eagles Nest, offering over 1600 feet of continuous snow, up to 55 degrees. Due to its aspect, this route likely has a short lifespan (we found it in ideal condition* 06/08/14).

Eagles Nest northwest face
Eagles Nest northwest face

Approach

As for Cataract Lake/South Ridge. The route can be accessed from the meadows southwest of Mirror Lake. When the route is in condition, expect deep snow in the basin and on the trail, making the approach more difficult than even its length suggests.

Approx. ~0.5 miles southwest from Mirror Lake, leave the trail and cross the stream (on snow!) to the east at the outlet of a small lake or marsh (39.78283,-106.36191). Travel southeast through forest to reach the slopes at the base of the northwest face. Climb these slopes (600') to reach a brief talus field and the base of the couloir (39.77783,-106.35721).

Route Description

Climb the narrow couloir. Around 12600' the couloir turns left and opens up. From here trend southeast until the snow runs out. Scramble the last 200' or so to the summit ridge and go north to the summit.

Eagles Nest Northwest Couloir route
Eagles Nest Northwest Couloir route

Essential Gear

Mountaineering axe, sturdy boots, crampons. Two axes or tools can make the climbing more secure.

Notes

* hard packed snow when climbed around sunrise.


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.