Camping at the 16,700 ft camp at the edge of the snowfield takes 2-3 hours to access the wall.
Pickets and two ropes make it much easier to get off the wall. Plan to leave 6 pickets for the whole wall if using two 60m ropes.
Rockfall will happen once the wall warms. We saw and heard rockfall all over the central section.
Hiring a cook with porters/mules allows you to get to highcamp rested enough to attempt the route. Well worth the investment.
The upper half of the wall had penitentes up to 1 foot. (June 2008)
The right side of the glacier from camp has the least objective danger currently. Crevasses are either 1 foot wide or big enough to swallow a car--not much inbetween.
Even though we didn't make the top it was a great climb. Also a great route page.
Haliku - Jun 11, 2008 9:49 pm - Voted 10/10
A few additions to considerCamping at the 16,700 ft camp at the edge of the snowfield takes 2-3 hours to access the wall.
Pickets and two ropes make it much easier to get off the wall. Plan to leave 6 pickets for the whole wall if using two 60m ropes.
Rockfall will happen once the wall warms. We saw and heard rockfall all over the central section.
Hiring a cook with porters/mules allows you to get to highcamp rested enough to attempt the route. Well worth the investment.
The upper half of the wall had penitentes up to 1 foot. (June 2008)
The right side of the glacier from camp has the least objective danger currently. Crevasses are either 1 foot wide or big enough to swallow a car--not much inbetween.
Even though we didn't make the top it was a great climb. Also a great route page.
Cheers,
Haliku