A rope, a light rack, and a partner would really open up the possibilities.
Good wall. Went left of the hand and found one short expose fifth class move near the bottom. After the bottom, easy routefinding and no more than fourth class. Bailed on the traverse due to time and storms rolling in early during the prior days. Wet Hourglass descent the toughest part for us!
My 2nd ascent of this route, but first time in winter. Roped up at the hand and climbed protected all the way to the summit (mix of simulclimbing and belayed climbing). Steep 4th class terrain with snow and a little ice. Descended the Hourglass route. 18 hours car to car. By far my most serious winter climb to date.
Climbed with Jamie Nellis. Intersting route finding, some parts harder than expected and others easier. I'm not sure if we went entirely the easiest way up the headwall near the "black hand", 1 or 2 moves in particular felt 5th class. We went around it to the right side. The face leading to the wall below the ridge was very loose talus.
One section just below the ridge crest where we bypassed a gendarme near the ridge crest had a very narrow and exposed ledge, then the ridge crest itself was fun and airy. Too bad it started raining so we couldn't enjoy it fully!
climbed the face before traversing to blanca. it was a nice, long scramble but wasn't spooky like expected.