1h10 from col to summit at the end of a traverse from Avalanche. The downclimb wasn't particularly dangerous, but it was time-consuming -- slower than the climb itself. Trip report.
Great day. The bypass was a little tricky and got off-route, then back on again and to the ridge. Super Fun and definitely no harder than the grade. Take it all in. Solo/simul.
Soloed most of the route... weather came in early this day and we decided to turn back a hundred feet below the summit. Were treated to serious electricity on the way down. Couldn't find the last (8th?) set of rap anchors so cut a bollard in the gully... friends climbed it the next day and told us the anchors were buried under some sand, 10 feet away from our bollard!
Superb. 1 hour and a half to summit from col. Crushed it but the descent took wayyy longer. Dream like ridge
Tagged this bad boy hot on the heels of another looong day with a buggered up knee and did it car to car from sea-level which in hindsight probably wasn't ideal timing as we were pretty bagged. Simul-climbed the whole route but didn't place any pro. Can't decide if the rope was a good idea or not. Could have climbed faster without it but it was nice knowing it was there especially when passing other climbers required venturing out into harder than 5.4 terrain. Probably would have felt crappier if we'd climbed faster anyway. Was very happy to double up ropes with another party for most of the raps as it helped to make up a lot of time and cut down on rock fall issues. Also still undecided on the bivy vs. car to car call. 8000 feet up and down is a lot but you get a better sleep down below. Perfect weather, excellent rock (except for the loose crap on the way down which was horrible), and not nearly as scary as it looks from the highway!
Just awesome, no wonder everyone talks about it so much... deserves its reputation for sure.