Northwest Ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
Wallis (Weissmies), Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
PD / Snow / Glacier

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Page By:
Northwest Ridge
Created On: Oct 11, 2003
Last Edited On: Oct 24, 2009

Overview

Fletschhorn as viewed from...From the southwest

The Northwest Ridge of the Fletschhorn is the normal route from the Weissmies Hut and the first leg of the Fletschhorn - Lagginhorn Traverse which is included in "Walliser Alpen Die 100 schönsten Touren" by Michel Vaucher with Gaston Rebuffat. It is a varied ascent involving a dry glacier and perhaps a bit of rock scrambling (depending on the exact line and time of year) in the beginning followed by a glacier crossing and the ascent of a sweeping ridge above the famous North Face.

The first ascent of this route was probably made in July of 1889 by J.D. James and Ambros Supersaxo.

Approach

The Weissmies Hut is 3 hours from Saas Grund or 1 h from the station Kreuzboden of the Hohsaas lift. One could also ride all the way to Hohsaas and walk downhill to the hut.

A second hut page with photo (in Dutch): Weissmies Hut

MAP On this, you can easily trace the route as described below. Click one time north to locate the Fletschhorn.

See the main page for information on getting to Saas Grund.

Route Description

Normal route to FletschornRoute viewed from hut
Fletschhorn from near the Weissmies HutApproach to glacier

A track leads from the hut east then north to a small dry portion of the Fletschorn Glacier located below the active icefall of the upper glacier. Cross the glacier trending north to the base of the slopes leading upward toward point 3527 on the Swiss Topo. These slopes have varying amounts of snow and scree depending on the time of year. A fairly good track exists in the scree when it is not snow covered. Otherwise take the easiest route to the ridge top. Follow the ridge top to its junction with the Grüebu Glacier. Make rising traverse across the Grüebu Glacier to the Northwest Ridge, then follow the ridge to the summit.

Climbing on the route:
the ascent to P. 3527 m (July...Ascent to 3527
ascent on the Gruben glacier...On the glacier
Grüebu Glacier FletschhornOn the glacier

Fletschhorn 3993mOn the ridge
on Fletschhorn NW ridge (July...On the ridge
upper part of Fletschhorn NW...On the ridge



Essential Gear

Basic glacier travel gear. No rock pro is needed.


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