1-After the cabin, there is a small road that branches south. This is not the southern route. Continue into the steep-walled canyon. The next left is the southern route.
2-As of July 2005, there was a rock cairn at the split between the south and north routes. There were also cairns at the two major canyon junctions on the way up. You go right and then left. Then you're looking up at Notch Peak's ridge.
3- Don't take the north route. It's much harder all around, and the wash includes a 100-foot drop. If you do go without a rope, you can downclimb a steep, knife-edge ridge that is just northeast of the sheer drop.
Thanks for pointing those out! I'll integrate them into the route text later this week.