NW-flank (normal route)

Page Type
Haute Savoie (Mont Blanc), France, Europe
Route Type:
Basic Snow/Glacier Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
PD, till 40°

Route Quality: 12 Votes

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NW-flank (normal route)
Created On: Jan 7, 2002
Last Edited On: May 28, 2002


You reach the foot of the NW-flank of the Mont Blanc du Tacul from the the Ref. Cosmiques or the Biv. Abri Simond in 1/2 h or from the Aig. du Midi in 1 hour via the Col du Midi.

From the Aig. du Midi to the Col du Midi: In order to reach the Col du Midi below the Ref. Cosmiques, you need about 1/2 h from the Aig. du Midi. If you leave the cable car station via the bridge, you go the the Southsummit. On the firn ridge, you go down with SE-direction to an even ridgeplatform; then turn right to the S and SW-direction below the S-face of the Aig. du Midi. Pay attention to crevasses! From the foot of the S-face of the Aig. du Midi with S/SW-direction across the glacier to the Col du Midi and to the foot of the NW-flank of the Tacul.

Route Description

Books: 1. Rébuffat: 716 hm from the Col du Midi, 2,5 - 3 h from the Aig. du Midi to the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
2. Dumler: PD, till 40°, 3-4 h from the Aig. du Midi, 650 hm from the bergschrund, glacier tour, also as skitour possible.
First Ascent: 8th of August 1855. One or several members of the Hudson-Kennedy party.
Ascent: Rébuffat: "Leave the col proper on the right to go across to Mont Blanc du Tacul which is climbed up the main slope, at first diagonally. Then either directly or turning the serac barriers and the crevasses, if they are uncrossable, on the right, go up again diagonally to the shoulder formed by the almost horizontal section of the W Ridge. Go back left to reach the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (2 - 2 1/2 hrs depending on conditions)." (P. 57)

Pay attention to the crevasses: Every time, I was at the Mont Blanc, I have seen helicopters rescueing a person who had fallen into a crevasse on this NW-flank route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Descent: The same route as the ascent. 1 h.
Report: none yet

Essential Gear

1 ice axe, crampons, rope.