Ice was great, but accidentally bypassed the hardest pitch.
Loved it, but water gushers shooting around the pick... TR @ http://www.summitpost.org/mixed-technical-assent-via-odell-s/770305
Climbed with Greg. A tiny bit mushy low down, and a little melted out up high, but overall great conditions. Rather cold (low teens) for April!
We climbed three pitches of snow and ice, with the last having an awesome cam (something like #0.75.) We then "simulclimbed" snow and scrambled some rock. We made a direct ascent to summit via the slopes behind the Alpine Garden. It was a giant, tilted ice rink. A dense fog moved in during this unroped portion, and it was super cool. In a few minutes we were on the busy, clear summit. Descended via Lion's Head.
Horrible brittle hollow ice for two pitches, then excellent easy rock and firm snow to the top. We started in blue skies and powder snow, and aborted a summit attempt when winds exceeded 50mph and temps plummeted with falling darkness - classic Mt. Washington adventure!
Sounds familiar to our attempt. But gosh, it was beautiful!
Climbed the first two pitches with my partner Randall in the lead only placing protection at the anchors in fat ice conditions. We both soloed the last two pitches which were basically a steep snow climb. Descended the Escape Hatch that was almost as strenuous as climbing up Odell's.
Mostly snow after the 1st initial bulge. Stable and steep with low visibility. Took Lions Head down as we couldn't find/see the escape hatch.
Good times with a few "bush hooks" and rock moves to overcome the thin sections. Still enjoyable though. Sometimes I think these gullies are even more fun with less ice, but you can certainly climb a lot faster when they are fat.
Went too far left - expected to find an easy ledge back to the main gully, found that way blocked but instead found a bit of snow leading upward to what looked like an easy scramble. Wound up on an interesting mixed line to the lip of the ravine.