Mount Shasta Climber's Log

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Guilty

Guilty - Aug 13, 2019 10:32 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2019

Sargent Ridge Deviation route  Sucess!

One very long day with some steep snow/ice climbs.

cascadescrambler

cascadescrambler - Jul 26, 2019 10:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 1995

Best glissade ever  Sucess!

Took Avalanche Gulch up, spectacular glissade from Red Banks down to camp

Varcho - Jul 19, 2019 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2019

perfect day  Sucess!

was a great day for a tough climb!

Ryland

Ryland - Jul 18, 2019 6:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2011

Tough solo day  Sucess!

This was a tough solo climb in a snowy year, though I was rewarded with spectacular views. Started from the car park (where there was still snow) at midnight and climbed via Avalanche Gulch, reaching the summit just after 10am.

Puma concolor

Puma concolor - Jun 18, 2019 6:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2019

Sunny and Windless  Sucess!

Two-day climb of the Avalanche Gulch Route with my good friend Boris. Really couldn’t have asked for better conditions, either in terms of weather or snow conditions. Camped at Lake Helen before starting for the summit around 3 AM the following day. On the summit at 8 AM. Absolutely fantastic climb!

defeinbe - Jun 3, 2019 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018

Made it just in time  Sucess!

Worth it!

dspencer - Apr 21, 2019 8:30 am Date Climbed: May 21, 2017

AG Guided   Sucess!

2 night trip with Shasha Mtn guides up AG with dad. Dad made it to the top of Red Banks. Summited. Lots of rock fall on the way back down in the PM. Great conditions overall.

dspencer - Apr 21, 2019 8:27 am

AG Attempt (second Shasta attempt)

led a group of friends up AG. Deep snow slowed our progress and some other factors led to stopping at Helen.

dspencer - Apr 21, 2019 8:25 am

West Face Attempt

led a group of service members from the Defense Language Institute in Monterey, CA (we were all studying Arabic) up the West face. Altitude sickness hit a few members of the group and we turned back at the base of misery hill.

travel_murse

travel_murse - Mar 24, 2019 10:13 am Date Climbed: Nov 17, 2018

Shasty!

Bulletproof ice. Axes were only superficially scratching the ice

chrisgrames

chrisgrames - Feb 13, 2019 9:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2017

First Mountaineering Climb - Shasta 2017  Sucess!

First mountaineering climb with my two brothers. Great introduction to the sport.

pezzotto

pezzotto - Oct 18, 2018 5:52 pm Date Climbed: Apr 29, 2018

First Shasta summit  Sucess!

Went up the Avalanche Gulch.Three days but could have done in two. Weather was perfect if not too cold in the morning. The descent post-summit was a long slosh in the melting snow.

rafiq - Sep 10, 2018 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

Mt. Shasta - West Face  Sucess!

My fist climb with crampon and in rope team situation. This climb changed me from a hiker to aspiring amateur mountaineer.

Yulia Zi

Yulia Zi - Jul 22, 2018 7:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2018

July Summit via Hotlum-Bolum Ridge  Sucess!

This was the least snow I've seen on this mountain so far. The weather perfect. Loose rock + scree in crampons was the most challenging part, both on the way up and even more so on the way down. A great endurance climb.

Do not take a low clearance vehicle for the last 8+miles offroad. Our Prius could not make it. We parked next to the train tracks.

sierramtngoat

sierramtngoat - Jul 6, 2018 11:46 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2018

Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!

Climbed with long time friend and partner Dave. Hit continuous snow at 50/50. Snow pack in the chute to the right of the "dog bone" in the Red Banks was firm, with no moats by on either side. Summit day was windy and very cold; climbed in my down jacket, which rarely happens. Met several rope teams of all young ladies from Alabama; very impressive and inspiring.


Route Climbed: Hotlum Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: July 31, 2016 Success!
Solo Dayhike Traverse from North to South:
It had been a while since I went up Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, so what better way to do it than as a dayhike, traversing all of Shasta? This had been a dream of mine for a very long time. The route is in a different kind of shape than I had remembered, a lot looser on the approach, give yourself some extra time for that. The H-B Ridge is currently exposed all the way to the ramp but no crevasses that I could see; there were open ones 10 years ago when the ridge was not exposed below the ramp, so stay close to the ridge. A couple told me that they had failed to stay on the ridge proper, above the rabbit ears; there is a class 3 scramble if you climb high between the rabbit ears and the ridge. After gaining the rige, stay on the ridge until the headwall where you climb the couloir climbers right; you would then top out on the north summit. Here is my Strava for the climb. It shows the shortcut I use for the first 1000 ft. (saves 30-45 min). https://www.strava.com/activities/660957525


Route Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006 Success!
Climbed with balajisv, dnriley, Dan, and Alex. The conditions were great with clear skies and low wind, but it was a bit on the warm side which made the descent a bit sloppy. The center of the "ramp" was 2" of snow on top of ice, so if you are thinking of glissading the ramp, be careful. Though climbing rope slowed our ascent, it seemed practical in hindsight as one of my partners punched though a snow bridge up to his shoulders, below and right of the bergschrund.


Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 14, 2005 Success!
Solo dayhike, nine hours from Bunny Flat. The runnels were pretty deep above Helen Lake which made the climb awkward, but not difficult. There was still snow in the chutes, but none on misery hill.


Route Climbed: Cascade Gulch Date Climbed: June 15, 2003 Success!
Pretty, aesthetic route. Climbed with my buddy Brad under a full moon; we were all alone on the route. Windy as all hell at the Shastina saddle. Crossing the Whitney Glacier was not difficult.


Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 28, 2002 Success!
Birthday climb with my Cousin Morgan. We made good time up to the plateau, took a breather, then bagged the summit. Enjoyed a birthday shot of baily's after we got back to Helen Lake.


Route Climbed: Hotlum/Wintun Ridge Date Climbed: July 29, 2001 Success!
Climbed with Maria; we ascended on the right side of the ridge, then crossed over to the Wintun Glacier. The snow was soft, the sun was hot, but the summit was freezing... welcome to Mt. Shasta.


Route Climbed: Helen Lake/Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 9, 2000 Success!
Repeated this route with my buddy Brian as he got sick the first time around and only attended the snow school. It was a lot warmer, but more cloudy... a difficult trade off.


Route Climbed: Helen Lake/Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 9, 2000 Success!
Climbed with SWS and my buddy Brian and a collegue. I was a bit out of shape at the time so the climbing was difficult. Some crazy looking guy with frozen snot stuck to his moustache passed us on his way down and the guide said, "you know, we don't have to end up looking like that guy, are you sure you want to continue?" HELL YES!!!

Jeff Hester

Jeff Hester - Jun 29, 2018 7:04 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018

1st Time Ascent  Sucess!

Hiked Mount Shasta as an overnight trip, camping at Lake Helen on Friday. Started climbing Avalanche Gulch at 3:20am. Reached the summit about 7 hours later. Mostly snow from 50/50 camp and above, but it's melting fast and there were patches of rock/scree to cross on Misery Hill.

Winds were fierce at the top (~40mph), but clear skies.

Was able to glissade from just below Red Banks to Lake Helen. Glissade conditions below Lake Helen were not so good.

Hiked out to Bunny Flats on same day as summit.

larch32

larch32 - Jun 6, 2018 9:35 am Date Climbed: May 4, 2016

Skied it!  Sucess!

Boy, I suck at skiing, but I sure did feel like I'd made the right decision when I zipped past dozens of people post-holing with 60 pound packs on.

SuperChthonic

SuperChthonic - May 3, 2018 5:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009

Shasta summit  Sucess!

Via CC and loved it. Since then 13 more summits of Shasta via various routes. I love this mountain. It has almost killed me but my love remains.

Wheelbarrow

Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 9:38 pm Date Climbed: Apr 5, 2017

Shasta really kicked my Butte   Sucess!

10pm push from Bunny Flats to the summit via Green Butte and back to car in 13 hours including a 2.5 hour nap at 13,000 feet. First time having my camelbak freeze =)

dgkirk

dgkirk - Dec 25, 2017 1:05 am Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2016

My first 14er  Sucess!

Reached the summit via Avalanche Gulch, with base camp at Lake Helen. Party of 3. Perfect blue bird day.

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