Ski trip. Too icy :-(
Perfect climbing conditions with great snow for cramponing. Roman Wall really reminded me of Hood's old chute.
Due to forecast possible cloud covering the summit and area around, our guide (Baker Mountain Guide) decided to go for summit day early, leaving in the afternoon reaching summit at sunset and then come back down in darkness. We left BC at 2PM, reached summit at around 7.30-8.00PM. Return to the BC at 3AM in the morning. I dropped one hiking pole in crevasse on way down. My toes froze badly that, gradually within 4-8 weeks I lost four toenail, one big toe nail included. Quite an eventful climb.
Great day navigating many crevasses, ice falls, and seracs. Climbed to 9100 feet prior to heading back due to a late start, softening conditions and lack of a clear route to the summit.
Great climb with a 9AM start from 7200 ft Gargoyle Camp. Clear summit with a lower cloudy marine layer at about 1:15
Took a course with Alpine Ascents, learned a ton. Heavily crevassed so took a while but overall great day.
Great weather, great team, great climb!
*Ascent of the North Ridge Route 8/27/17
First PNW summit in a few years. Nice sunset but a bit windy. Great return to the Cascades.
Was clear in the morning around 3am, once we got near the Roman Wall it became pretty cloudy and windy, couldn't see too far ahead of us. We continued on into the lenticular cloud covering the summit and reached the summit around 830am. Hung out on the summit for about 15 minutes since it looked like it was trying to clear up but it never did so we headed back down. Once we passed the Roman wall again on the way down it began to clear up.
Excellent route! Climbed right into a whiteout and didn't see much on the summit but was still worth it. Climbed with Jamie and Josh.
Joined the hordes on the C/D on the hottest day of the year (so far). Started climbing at 4 AM and got down before the heat of the day. Much easier than anticipated, but still a lot of fun.
Conditions were warm and very sunny on the Heliotrope Trail to high camp just below the Black Buttes at about 6,700 ft. Many crevasses were seen on the lower Coleman Glacier but none were large enough to cause serious concern. At 1:05 am we heard the distinctive sound of an avalanche higher up the mountain. We began our summit bid at 3:30 am on 1 July with warm temps and snow that was high in water content and consolidated just under the surface. The Roman Wall was firm and deserves its reputation for being fairly steep. Spencer, Kent and I summited under full sun and increasingly soft snow. The descent was warm, with very soft snow and a seamingly endless train of climbers going up. Following our departure from high camp, we encountered yet more climbers and skiers and upon reaching the trail head, the parking area was packed with cars extending beyond the parking area about a quarter mile in each direction. This is a popular climb.
Baker is a beautiful climb and offers the mountaineer spectacular views from the summit. Highly recommended.
My second Baker summit. Brought Eniko and Briley up.
climbed the north ridge, AI3, with lemke and josh. today was one of those incredible times that brands itself deep in your memory, a fantastic line on a powerful line in a remote setting. love baker! what a mountain!
Coleman-Deming/Heliotrope Ridge route.
July 2-3 2017.
Perfect approach day - bluebird skies & great conditions. Just able to park at the Trailhead (first weekend to do so after heavy snowpack winter). Basecamp setup on Coleman glacier near Black Buttes. Most smaller crevasses covered - no sketchy crossings until higher elevations.
Overnight major storm hit - winds high enough to destroy a 4-season tent (rental from MEC). Up at 1:30 for coffee and to gear-up. Had to take-down tents due to conditions (would blow off the mtn if we weren't sleeping in them). 2 other groups plus ourselves, decided to rope up & make a summit attempt - we followed their path. Departed around 3:30am amidst blowing wind & heavy overcast conditions. Both other groups turned back around 6am. We continued briefly to the saddle between the Roman Wall & Colfax. Complete white-out. Evidence of significant and recent avalanche debris all around us. Large crevasses to navigate around - could barely see them in time. Post-holed a bit, prayed, waited 15 minutes for a miracle - then decided to return to basecamp.
Packed up gear and glissaded much of the way off the glacier & down the hogsback. Watch for hidden crevasses in the snow-pack adjacent to hogback, especially where creeks cross. Deep enough to swallow you. Had to jump across one, about 4ft wide & 20ft deep.
Approach trail was mixed - snow & open trail. Glacier creek crossing was very sketchy - although everyone appeared to make it. Many groups heading up on Saturday afternoon as we headed out.
All in all - a beautiful 2 days on the mountain with my 3 sons. Psalm 121 came alive.
More or less walked up with a fellow peakbagger who had much more experience with glaciers and snow. Beautiful weather, lots of people out enjoying the mountain.
Camped at Hogsback, spent a day on the glacier practicing crevasse rescue. Summited around 5:45am on day 3 with a windy whiteout at the microclimate starting at the Roman Wall and continuing all around the summit crater. Crazy day!
Made it halfway up the mountain hiking / skinning. Lenticular formed over the mountain as we were going to bed that night with not the best forecast. Saw clouds approaching over the sisters to the West. Lots of rain / wind all night - woke up in a whiteout. Ended up scrapping the climb and playing around doing crevasse rescue practice before heading out