I summitted with Andy Evans (3rd Canadian, I believe), Andy Collins (UK) and Billy Pierson (USA). Our expedition was led by Gary Pfisterer (USA). Nobody in our group used supplementary oxygen.
Stopped by chest deep snow at 8400m. No summits this year. First descent of K2's upper slopes, skied from the top of the bottleneck (8350) down to camp 3 (7300m), rappelled the Black Pyramid and House Chimney, skied from bottom of House chimney(6500m) to ABC (5200m). 8,200ft vertical skied, another 2,000ft rappelled.
Excellent, do you have ski shot of upper slops, it will be great if you publish them.
Yes, there is NO SUMMIT THIS YEAR. This year was not a good season for climber, Due to heavy snow on the mountain and danger of avalanches very few climber reaches close to summit and some up to bottle neck (the death zone) however one climber claim reaching just few meter from the summit.
Got to 8,250 meters via the south-southeast spur route on August 1st, 2008. Turned back thanks to frostbite in my fingers and good thing I did, because that was the day that 11 other climbers died after the serac broke apart and cut the ropes... Heading back to K2 in 2009 to attempt the North Ridge! Anyone have any pictures of the route/camps or any advice. This route is rarely climbed, and there are very few photos of the Chinese side easily available. Thanks!
I went to the North Ridge in 1986. Personally I was just in the support team so didn't go above 5300m although summitted a 6000m peak near base camp. All my photos are slides - my profile photo is the North Ridge although my butt is in the way; I'll try to digitize some photos and upload them.
If there is a possibility for the camels to drop your gear at camp 1 (the nose of the K2 glacier) then by all means pay whatever extortionate fee they charge and do it - the time savings on a mountain with a narrow weather window is worth it; the only benefit base camp has is that there is brush you can use for cooking fires.
North ridge with Denis Urubko.
Great job Sergey! I haven't seen you since '05 on Broad Peak. See you out there...Annapurna and Kanchenhunga in '08.
Sergey died on Lhotse, 26.05.2009
no, we never found the missing crampons. i suspect that in the confusion of that morning, someone couldn't find their own crampons and "borrowed" a pair from our camp. the entire camp 4 was covered with a fairly deep layer of blowing snow and the conditions that morning were deteriorating rapidly.
4th canadian to summit K2 (and technically the 16th american via dual citizenship)
Our small team of three first attempted a new route on the unclimbed East Face of K2 but were turned back at 6700 meters by killer avalanche conditions. The route (up to our high point, anyhow) was fantastic and is feasible with a small team and modern tactics. It's too bad we did not continue. I'd like to try it again, but- I think once on K2 is enough. (Somebody tell that to Billy Pierson)
After 3 summit attempts, we eventually summited on July 20, 2007 via the Abruzzi Spur. All three members climbed without oxygen or porters/sherpas, and without establishing any camps on the route. (We carried only one tent and one set of supplies)
for full info, videos and dispatches on the expedition see www.sharedsummits.com and www.donbowie.net
please feel free to contact me with questions or comments.
more photos to follow.
Totaly impressed. Congradulations on your amazing acomplishment.
thanks everyone. i'm honored to be the first to sign an SP log for summiting.
AWESOME JOB!!!! One can only dream of summitting K2 "The Savage Mountain" Im going to spend some time up there when I get experienced enough. And i spent forever looking at your video dispatches on sharedsummits.com. It just made me excited. I have been trying to search for videos actually on K2 but all I could find was your videos and K2 by Billy Pierson. Thanks for the encouragement!!!! And great job!!! On summiting the most diffcult mountain!!
Don - saw Chris' presentation last night in Boulder about your trip. Incredible fortitude man. You are THE MAN. Sorry about the unfortunate circumstances (people), but it sounds like you could not have done any better given the tough fact set. Hope the knee/leg is all healed up. All the best.