Triglav Climber's Log

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atavist

atavist - Nov 7, 2018 3:07 am Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2018

epic north face  Sucess!

Started on 22nd up the Vrata valley with my friend Marie. We had a 15m rope, a few slings and biners, rock shoes and one harness. I was in the mood for some scrambling but without a rack we had to keep it mellow. We started out towards the Prag route but went to far up the valley. I realized the mistake but rather than fully retreat we explored up the NFace. We spent a cold night on a small platform and I made the summit afternoon on the 23rd. The upper mountain had more than a dusting of snow. It made for some short but exciting pitches. I was able to anchor on old pitons or a small horn, most of the time. Some easyish offwidths in rotten-looking rock and a short icy traverse with no protection raised my pulse.

ye2bnik

ye2bnik - Jul 30, 2018 4:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2018

Nice climb in windy summer day  Sucess!

Start 3am from Aljazev Dom. Ascent Tominskova Put, descent Prag. Total 9 hours trip, incl short stay in Kredarica. Very windy above the hut, summit in the clouds, but only until ca. 8am - so I was happy to enjoy nice view from the top

boriskrielen

boriskrielen - Feb 9, 2018 2:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2011

Normal route solo in 1 day up & down  Sucess!

Climbed the normal route solo, up & down in 1 day from the parking tot the top and back. Started at 4:30 am, arrived at the hut at 7 am, and the summit at 8 am. Great weather. There was some fresh snow and strong wind, but not a problem for the easy normal route. #nonstopsolo

EevaH

EevaH - Oct 15, 2016 6:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2016

From Rudno Polje  Sucess!

Overnighting in Triglavski Dom na Kredarici. The hut was overbooked and too crowded, but we managed to get beds after almost five hours of waiting. Headed for the summit at 6 am next morning. A bit cloudy day, but no rain. Via ferrata set is not exaggerated. Great climb!

climbmn

climbmn - Oct 8, 2016 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2016

Via Rudno Polje  Sucess!

Perfect weather, great climb. Had an absolute blast in Slovenia.

bobbyfm

bobbyfm - Oct 4, 2016 11:19 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2011

From Kovinarska koca   Sucess!

A beautiful 3 day hike. The first night we stayed at Kovinarska koca, the second at Triglavski dom and on the third day we climbed the summit. An enjoyable climb with an amazing view from the top.

Jurgen

Jurgen - Sep 16, 2016 1:43 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2016

From Aljazev Dom (Vrata Valley)  Sucess!

Started at 6am and took the Tominskov Pot way up. A pretty steep route which is secured with cables at some points. Reached the summit at 9:15am. For the descent I took the Pot Cez Prag which is slightly easier, but still exposed at some parts. Had a great tour on a beautiful mountain! I Recommend to climb the mountain when there aren't too many people climbing. A helmet is recommended for the Vrata valley routes.

chugach mtn boy

chugach mtn boy - Aug 22, 2016 11:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2016

Slovenian Mothers Day  Sucess!

Climbed via normal route, descended the south ridge. This was a national holiday and the mountain was an anthill. No special gear needed on the normal route in dry conditions, but full body armor might be a help on the lower part of the south ridge route, if taking the branch that returns to Planika (the route descends a gully that funnels rockfall from climbers above).

Falk

Falk - Aug 15, 2016 3:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2016

Fast & painless  Sucess!

Ascended with the first light of day via the easy and well protected normal route. Crowded summit, as expexted. Descended via south ridge, quite exposed. If you should decide for this route, pay much attention to the scree on the slick limestone slabs right beneath the summit! Bring a helmet and stay out of the fall line of anyone above you! There is simply too many folks on this mountain, at least in the main season.

Moonhiker

Moonhiker - Dec 10, 2015 2:15 pm Date Climbed: Dec 8, 2015

beautifull winter day  Sucess!

From Krma valley to Kredarica and via small Triglav to the top.

rockymountaindiva

rockymountaindiva - Oct 17, 2015 11:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2015

Waiting for the rain to stop  Sucess!

Wanted to do it from 7 Lakes Valley but not enough time on our trip. Then recommended to do from KRMA valley so stayed in hut there but rain, rain, rain so moved on through park. Finally hiked from Trenta to Koca na Dolicu, only a little rain, stayed overnight, summited next day and returned all the way to Trenta. Snow on top, somewhat slippery in spots and quite a crowd there! But perfect day with good views.

Kevintheclimber

Kevintheclimber - Aug 27, 2015 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2015

finally  Sucess!

we didnt reach the summit back in 2010. but it started my fascination in mountaineering and reclimbed it via Tominskova Pot. fun climb

jck

jck - Aug 1, 2015 3:38 am

Three times  Sucess!

Summer 2018
One day ascent along Bambergova pot and descent via Cez Prag route. Fantastic day, bit hot, really enjoyable.

Spring 2016
Took the route along Krma valley. After a night in Vodnikov dom we went up Dom Planika and then via Mali Triglav to the main summit. Descended to Kredarica hut and the to Vodnikov dom for another night - long day, over 16 hours. No tracks, lots of snow, perfect weather.

Summer 2015
One long day: Aljazev dom - Tomniskova Pot - Kredarica hut - Triglav - Kredarica hut - Pot Cez Prag - Aljazev dom. Rainy, no views at all...

fubar7500

fubar7500 - Oct 29, 2013 4:25 am Date Climbed: Oct 26, 2013

Bambergov Pot  Sucess!

Aljazev Dom – Luknja Pass – Plemenice ridge- Triglav-Triglavsky dom
Demanding hiking tour (time, endurance), ferrata parts without problems. Summit without crowds in nice weather. Wonderfull weekend!

project360

project360 - Sep 16, 2013 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013

One of the best!  Sucess!

Clear night leaving the Ribcev Laz hotel at 3am for a direct summit climb. Stopped at each refuge along the way. Great crowds heading the fixed lines which offered at the summit perfect views in all directions!

windystu

windystu - Jul 29, 2013 4:40 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2007

Tom up, Prag down  Sucess!

Wonderful solo trip.

highpointa - Jun 18, 2013 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011

From Rudno Polje  Sucess!

Started our climb in Rudno Polje, summited, then spent the night at Vodnikov Dom.

Batistuta

Batistuta - Feb 21, 2013 7:45 am Date Climbed: Mar 17, 2012

from Kredarica hut  Sucess!

Climbed via Krma valey/Kredarica hut, a good snow conditions and sunny weather.

Andrej21

Andrej21 - Oct 18, 2012 11:31 pm

2007 and 2009  Sucess!

Short roped to the top with guide in 2007 to become a real slovenian. Went back in 2009 and climbed to summit solo in and out in a day (13 hours) from planina konjscica.

rgg

rgg - Aug 15, 2012 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2012

Lucky with the clouds  Sucess!

It was in the middle of an extended period of generally good weather. However, while the valleys were sunny and hot, there were almost always clouds surrounding some of the higher peaks, and occasionally there would be a bit of rain late in the day, or even a thunderstorm.

Early in the morning, the summit was in clouds, so I made no haste getting up there. I had spent the night in Stanicev Dom, the hut that I had chosen to avoid the possible crowds in Triglavski Dom. That worked out well, Stanicev wasn't crowded at all. Alas, the selection of food was very limited. Quite uncharacteristically, I had just an apfelstrudl for breakfast and nothing to drink - but I knew I could make up for that soon, and so I did, with lots of tea and pancakes at Triglavski Dom.

By the time I approached the summit, the clouds had dissolved, and I had great views all around. Sure, there were lots of other people on the summit, but on the way up, I didn't have to wait often.

For the descent, I had choosen the Plemenice route. It turned out to be more exposed and much, much longer than I had expected, but a very nice route indeed! And quiet too, by the way.

When I eventually reached Luknja, a dark cloud and a few drops made me change my plan. Originally, I had wanted to go to Pogacnikov Dom, which would involve going over Bovški Gamsovec, some 650m higher than the saddle but not a difficult route. However, I didn't fancy being up there in a thunderstorm, so I decided to go down to Trenta instead.

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