Dow Williams - Apr 23, 2019 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2019
Name Unknown- 30’-5.10a*
Two bolt direct variation to Deceptive Corner. Pulling over onto the ledge requires a reachy move. Good rock. Dow
Dow Williams - Apr 23, 2019 12:56 pm Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2019
Deceptive Corner- 70’- 5.7*/
Kind of a Jtree classic or should be. Climb the juggy traverse right to left to the large ledge. Climb the steep off-set corner above to a hands finish up right. Medium to small gear belay. Walk off climbers right. Single to C4#2. Dow
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:08 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2016
Bucket Brigade
As the name suggests, just follow the buckets up a right to left slanting crack. It is hard to place a ton of gear to protect the second. I would not take a timid 2nd on this pitch. Makes for a good solo for the competent climber. On the easy side of 5.7 for Jtree and I never felt exposed.
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:06 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2016
Undercover
Both of these mixed 5.10a’s are worth doing, but Undercover offers the best and safest climbing. Climb through two bolts to the ledge. Exposed moves to the first bolt but they are fun and positive. The crack above is more of a horizontal than Miramontes guide suggests. It is the next obvious crack to the left of Deceptive Corner. This horizontal traverse protects well, on positive ground and is easier than the route grade. I set up a medium gear rap in a summit crack and extended it with a ton of webbing to the edge to set up a top rope for others.
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:05 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2016
Death of the Nile
This route’s lower section is a much tougher mental lead than Undercover. It offers significant exposure via a traverse from its single bolt, left on big jugs with little feet. Then a small dyno to more big jugs. You can place a C4#.3 in a crack after that move. Then more jugs to the ledge. The final follows a more subtle crack than Undercover’s to the top. You can rap and clean on the same gear rap you set up for Undercover. The few moves are more outstanding on Death, but Undercover has a better finish for sure. Both are a bit run out to their first bolts. But both routes go straight up positive holds to get your clips. Most would stick clip these I suppose, but the intent is to enjoy the bit of exposure.
Dow Williams - Dec 4, 2015 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Dec 2, 2015
Boulder Dash
One of the last of Miramontes'starred 5.9's I climbed in the park. Not sure how it evaded me. Echo is normally crowded and I avoid it I guess. Cool route, he gives it 2 stars, but it is not near as sustained as most starred 5.9's. Everything but the final dihedral is mostly 5.6 at most. The dihedral is full on albeit short. The pro is not steady, flared pockets, etc. Stem when it pinches down to fingers to make a smooth transition. There is a rap just to climbers left (Ground UP or Shut UP). If with multiple folks or relatively new to climbing, I advise walking off. The rap is on the edge, would be hard to manipulate for some.
Dow Williams - Apr 23, 2019 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2019
Name Unknown- 30’-5.10a*Two bolt direct variation to Deceptive Corner. Pulling over onto the ledge requires a reachy move. Good rock. Dow
Dow Williams - Apr 23, 2019 12:56 pm Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2019
Deceptive Corner- 70’- 5.7*/Kind of a Jtree classic or should be. Climb the juggy traverse right to left to the large ledge. Climb the steep off-set corner above to a hands finish up right. Medium to small gear belay. Walk off climbers right. Single to C4#2. Dow
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:08 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2016
Bucket BrigadeAs the name suggests, just follow the buckets up a right to left slanting crack. It is hard to place a ton of gear to protect the second. I would not take a timid 2nd on this pitch. Makes for a good solo for the competent climber. On the easy side of 5.7 for Jtree and I never felt exposed.
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:06 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2016
UndercoverBoth of these mixed 5.10a’s are worth doing, but Undercover offers the best and safest climbing. Climb through two bolts to the ledge. Exposed moves to the first bolt but they are fun and positive. The crack above is more of a horizontal than Miramontes guide suggests. It is the next obvious crack to the left of Deceptive Corner. This horizontal traverse protects well, on positive ground and is easier than the route grade. I set up a medium gear rap in a summit crack and extended it with a ton of webbing to the edge to set up a top rope for others.
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:05 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2016
Death of the NileThis route’s lower section is a much tougher mental lead than Undercover. It offers significant exposure via a traverse from its single bolt, left on big jugs with little feet. Then a small dyno to more big jugs. You can place a C4#.3 in a crack after that move. Then more jugs to the ledge. The final follows a more subtle crack than Undercover’s to the top. You can rap and clean on the same gear rap you set up for Undercover. The few moves are more outstanding on Death, but Undercover has a better finish for sure. Both are a bit run out to their first bolts. But both routes go straight up positive holds to get your clips. Most would stick clip these I suppose, but the intent is to enjoy the bit of exposure.
Dow Williams - Dec 4, 2015 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Dec 2, 2015
Boulder DashOne of the last of Miramontes'starred 5.9's I climbed in the park. Not sure how it evaded me. Echo is normally crowded and I avoid it I guess. Cool route, he gives it 2 stars, but it is not near as sustained as most starred 5.9's. Everything but the final dihedral is mostly 5.6 at most. The dihedral is full on albeit short. The pro is not steady, flared pockets, etc. Stem when it pinches down to fingers to make a smooth transition. There is a rap just to climbers left (Ground UP or Shut UP). If with multiple folks or relatively new to climbing, I advise walking off. The rap is on the edge, would be hard to manipulate for some.