A fall of several hundreds of meters as he was climbing un-roped along the ridge that unites the Tãsch-horn with Sunday (4,545 ms, the Swiss Alps), not far from Mt.Cervin(Matterhorn), took yesterday to Wednesday 28 of April the life of Patrick Berhault. The body of the French mountain climber has been found to first hour of today Thursday by the rescue teams, and transferred to Zermatt.
Berhault, of 47 years, was in the final course of his present adventure in the Alps, next to his friend and companion of the rope in the last three years , Philippe Magnin, who was also evacuated yesterday by helicopter to Zermatt. Magnin, who after losing sight of Berhault decided to return to the security of the bivouac of Mischabeljoch, has declared that not to fall . "I saw him slide down for 50 meters, before disappearing into the fog".
They tried to crown a new top within its present project: the 82 4000 meter peaks of the Alps in 82 days (the last one had been the Tãsch-horn), and according to Magnin "for us were a easy land". They went quickly unroped and all that wa required to to chain 82 tops in the Alps in this time. "the cord only we used was to rappel".
Berhault was a key figure of rock climbing and alpinism in the eighties decade in he which enjoyed all the facets the mountain (precursory next to Edlinger of sport and the high difficulty, author of important linkings in the Alps, balloonist of the first in artificial and "homemade" acclimatization, protagonist of films and spectacles of dance-climbing...), except for its competitive side (it always signed and it fulfilled the famous " Manifesto of to the 19 ").
Patrick did not seem to have changed much since then, when he affirmed that he preferred the rocks with earth and vegetation to be able to feel closer to nature. He did every day in his farm, with his family, "in close contact with the nature", something that put in front without doubting it to the scaling, but that did not let look for in its last alpine excursions.
In fact, he got to confess to Jean Michel Asselin, editor head of the Vertical French magazine (to see Unevenness 175), that the passage to the made alpine arc next to several companions (Humar, Edlinger, Magnin...) between 2000 and 2001, the Alps arose first of all because him "it had desire to the Alps,". He wanted to impress himself "of his landscapes, their stations. To know the other climbers, to the guards of the refuges, the people who live in those mountains. And also the history of the Alps through its more significant routes ". Yes, in the heat of to look for the adventure in the Alps century XXI.
To walk searching carefully
Because "the originality, the creativity, the ' new one will aventure, walking searching carefully" they were always basic terms in the conception that Patrick Berhault had of the mountain and the climbing. Aspects that always interested to him: "the scaling and the mountain are also the adventure, the adaptation, in which often there are unexpected risks to which we must try to do in front, because that form leaves from the game".
Those risks, and that mentality, changed with time, even before having a family. "To make abstraction voluntary of all danger, although it perceived them and it had certainty of them, it let interest to me, and it began to me to seem an absurd one, a lack of intelligence and respect". Not only in front of the wanted people, also in front of the mountain. Yesterday, that mountain that as much it loved and it respected took it of unexpected form, for all.
Quickening, speed, and linkings were three constants in their sport curriculum. His was modest also. Like sport climbers, he was the king of quickening in the first eighty. Its Devers film marked. It was, surely, the first shooting of the world dedicated completely to the scaling towards the bad side. Figures of climbing such as Edlinger or Güllich never let confess their admiration by Berhault and its lines of Monaco, specially Ceiling of Augusta and Perife'rica the west . He was one of the first climbers for whom the gade of 8c was proved...
In the Alps, speed and linkings marked their time in much of their bulks (Ecrins, Oisans, Valais...), and specially in the Mont Blanc. He had like companions to first European figures, such as Patrick Gabarrou or Patrick Cordier, among others, and their activity, some of the best times soloing tthe Integral of Peuterey or the Droites continues in his name. Remembering words of our own Patrick, with his more original linking, "the South face of the Fou and the direct way on the Drus, returning to Chamonix in the day, and making flights with a parasail in company of Jean Marc Boivin" and others of his adventuring companions.
" Dom it is the highest mountain completely in Swiss territory (because Dufour is the highest summit in Switzerland but not the highest mountain).
SUMMITS and ANTISUMMITS".
Please explain. Dufour is higher, completely in Swiss territory (not located on any borderline). Of course its geological root reaches down to Italy. So does Mt. Blanc.
There is an error's in the route descriptions:
E face: routes on the east face usually do not start from the domhutte but from the cablecar station at Langflue
There is also a description missing:
W face: Several routes accros the ice west face: ice, 55 degrees inclination and some rock climbing III near the top of the west face, D/D+.
I have added your notations to the route section