I read the comments about climbign from Chile. I did it on 2005 but I had a very good experience! The police invite me and my husband for a special dinner because we riched the summit that day! They were very nice.
Thanks for the comment. It's good to hear some nice things about the Chilean side also. All the comments I heard when in the area this season were very negative. I thought it was important to let others know about what these climbers had experienced.
Either the things change for worse or I was lucky. Three years ago while hitch-hiking alone in that area I had utterly different experience. The police at Maricunga gave me a free shelter for four days, supplied with food, water and Pisco Sour:) and finally organised transport to Laguna Verde. The police at Laguna Verde were equally kind so I suppose everything depends who you are lucky or unlucky to meet there – they change every couple of weeks.
Thanks for the comment Cyclista. I added your and another person's positive comments about climbing from the Chilean side on the main Ojos del Salado page.
I think it's exactly as you say; the luck/unluck about who you meet.
The OdS map produced by the German Alpin Club is for sure the best map of the area and the group from the Dresden University did a great job. They climbed OdS from the Chilean side, so this route is correctly surveyed. But the route painted for the Argentinean side is purely made by fantasy and absolutely wrong. If you want to climb OdS from Argentina use the coordinates given by Corax in this webpage, they are exact. Nevertheless the most features especially the relief is correctly reproduced. Also the heights can be taken as correct. One mistake I found on the Argentinean route is a non existing river above the "Aguas Calientes" camp. The spring of the Rio Cazadero is at "Aguas Calientes", so don't expect water further above. The spring should give water the whole year.
Except the wrong route, I also highly recommend this map. If you arrive without the map in Fiambala, ask Jonson Reynoso. He has one exemplar and will borrow it or gives you a copy
I'm planning an own expedition to Ojos and I'm looking for a guide. Anyone could help to find a guide??
Sorry, I'm not the right person to ask. I have never been on the Chilean side and on the Argentinian side I only know about Jonson Reynoso. He can be found in Fiambala, a little town not so far from Ojos.
Welcome to mail me if you have any specific questions.
You mention "Like most peaks in this part of the Puna, Ojos del Salado is normally climbed from December to late March. It´s the warmest period in the southern hemisphere, but also the windy and dry. Some climbers choose to go later in the year as water is easier to find (snow and ice to melt) and the average wind speeds are usually significantly lower."
Do you mean later in the year Northern Hemisphere (December) or later in the year Southern Hemisphere (March) ??
Also the link to Sr. Reynoso appears broken at the moment. Do you have other contact info?
Thanks for the input. I will change the mentioned section.
It is confusing even to me :)
In April and May there's usually some snow which helps a bit.
In October and November there's more ice, old snow and penitentes to melt.
Those months sometimes offers great climbing, but can also be very windy, cold and rough.
Jonson's website seems to be on and off the internet. Most of the time it's down actually, but he hasn't told me about a new website so I leave the link for now.
I'll send you a PM with his email address as I feel it's not a good idea to post it here.
Thank you for that info. Much appreciated.