Lizard Head Additions and Corrections

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Diggler - Jun 28, 2012 7:11 pm - Voted 4/10

rap' anchor work

Not sure if there are other options, but the rap' anchor we used (it puts you ~30' to the R of the standard route P3 start) totally sucked- it held for us to get down, but 2 attempts to pull our ropes were fruitless- I ended up prusiking back up to the anchor TWICE to try to free the lines, but each time, it was still totally impossible to pull them. We ended up leaving a rope left by an earlier party that I'd hoped to return to its owner, & just doing a single-rope rap' off of it (because it was impossible to free our own ropes). Extending the anchor over a prominent edge just below it with some additional chains/quick links, & using a dedicated rap' ring (instead of threading the ropes through 2 chain links would quite possibly do the trick). If a future ascent party familiar with anchor set-up could bring some additional hardware & do some modification, that would be a great community service. - Aug 19, 2020 1:56 pm - Hasn't voted

A variation to the third lead

In late June 1968, Cleve McCarty and I climbed Lizard Head via a variation of the third lead on the south side of the summit block.

Using a 150 ft. rope, we split the southwest chimney lead in two. We were unable to protect or climb the short overhang/lie back to start the third lead.

Before resorting to an offered shoulder stand, I went around the corner to the right to explore the south face. There I was able to continue to the summit by way of a ramp, traversing the face to the left and then continuing up another to the right. It seemed straightforward at maybe 5.6-7 but poorly protected with the gear we had.

Thanks to the generosity of a great friend and climber, he let me lead the whole first. I wish I could still share the memory of that day with him.


Diggler - Sep 9, 2020 2:14 pm - Voted 4/10

Re: A variation to the third lead

Thanks, Paul. I included the last part of your route description on the page. I'm glad you had that day with your partner- my best days have been in the hills with friends & loved ones, some of whom are no longer here. I can relate.

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