Todra Gorge Additions and Corrections

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Escalade Maroc

Escalade Maroc - Jul 13, 2016 3:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Todra gorge

Overview

....From the town of Tinghir a road leads to the Todgha gorges .....

In theTodgha gorges there are 433 routes on 46 Sectors.

The intrance of the Gorge is immensely impressive, even climbers experienced in stunning rock-architecture gasp at first sight: The eart of the Todgha Gorge is stunning, it is a fault in the plateau and feels as if the earth has split open. the brown limestone walls rise 400......

...passing through smaller gorges and Amazigh (Berber) villages.

Getting There

Ouarzazate Airport = 182 kms
Marrakech Airport = 402 kms

From Marrakech to Ouarzazate : 204 km (4-5 hours)
By bus or shared taxi the price is around 90 dhs.
The road from Marrakech over the Tizn't Tichka pass (traditionally the strategic key to the interior) is dramatic purely for the rapidly changing environment. The palmeries are left behind, olive groves and goats appear then disappear before the prevailing orange of the country takes hold south of the pass.

From Ouarzazate to Tineghir : 172 km (3 hours).
By bus or shared taxi the price is around 70 dhs

From Marrakech to Tinghir : 376 km (7-8 hours)
By bus Supratour or CTM, the price is around 130 dhs.

Tineghir is the launch pad to the Gorge 14 km. If you go further into the mountains direction the berber village of Tamtattouchte, now a four-wheel drive is not necessary.
The price in shared taxi from Tinghir to the Todgha gorges is around 7dhs.

Red Tape and Advices

To get to the Gorge, a car is not necessary. Toll to access to the Gorge :7 Dh (0,7 $)

Climbing Sectors

There is a new guidebook of climbing in the Todgha gorges.
Edited by Julio Soares, the guy who works with locals to improve the todgha gorges about climbing and the etic touristique development
All information about it on the websites:
https://www.climbing-in-morocco.com
https://www.escalade-au-maroc.com
https://www.facebook.com/moroccoclimbing/

There are 46 sectors, from begining to exit of the small gorges, their names are:

First part : Entrée des gorges / Entrance of the gorges
13 sectors
Before the entrance in the Gorges

Second part: Coeur des gorges / Heart of the gorges
6 sectors
In center of the gorges

Third part: Au delà des gorges, gauche / Beyond the gorges, left
9 sectors
At the issue of the main gorges

Fourth part: Au delà des gorges, droite / Beyond the gorges, right
4 sectors
At the issue of the main gorges

Fifth part: Sortie des gorges / Exit of the gorges
5 sectors
At 10 mn on feet from the exit of the main gorges

Sixth part: Petites gorges / Small gorges
9 sectors
At 20 mn on feet from the exit of the main gorges

Accomodation

The hotels within the gorge offer a cheap and characteristic solution. Those more fortunate can reside in the more luxurious Hotel Bougafer at Tinerhir. Food and accommodation is generally very cheap, even if the most spartan accommodation is not recommended to those not used to this type of lodging

In the Gorge :
- Hotel Les Roches
- Hotel Yasmina
Both, closed because a big rock has fell on the roof last year.

At the entrance :
- Hotel La Vallée
- Etoiles des gorges

Last village (400m) of the entrance of the gorges
- Dar Tiwira - The house of climbers ( the best and cheap)

Campings :
- Camping Le Soleil
- Camping l' Auberge Atlas

Mountain Conditions

Most routes in the Todra Gorge are bolt-equipped.
A few multi-pitch routes need natural gear (nuts & friends).
A 2X50m or/and a 70 m rope is recommended as many of the single pitch routes are long; a dozen quickdraws, a rope bag, plenty of chalk and sun lotion are also essentials. Optional extras include a sleeping bag for roof-top sleeping, a camera, baggy trousers, sandals and a grasp of French…

You can rent all equipment like rope, harness, quickdraws, etc.
In the shop of " aventure verticales des gorges du Todgha"
In the last village of Tizgui, 400m before the entrance of the gorges.

This structure located in the Todra Gorge over the province of Tinghir.
Its main activity is the accompaniment for climbing, mountaineering and hiking for the tourists of the region.
It also has a shop sell mountain sporting goods and offers renting the equipment for practice of the activities it accompanies or not.
The accompaniment is carried out by trained and qualified local guides.
This structure does a huge work of equipment and re-equipment of climbing routes in the Todra gorges and more widely in Morocco.
It develops vertical activities such as alpine progression paths and has created the first part of a via ferrata, the first in Morocco and certainly in Africa.
This structure has made a climbing guidebook on Todgha and regularly offers free training for young people and children who wish to practice climbing in the gorges.

Warning: Unfortunately, the transparency with which wants to work "Vertical Adventures Morocco" in Todra gorges. Display of prices and refusal to distribute bribes causes problems with some local actors attached to these practices.
Also we caution you on false indications made by these individuals as well as on the danger of the completely false copy of the guidebook they will try to sell you.
We encourage you to visit us when you come and so avoid some "traps"

This only applies to a few bad individuals, this is not in the minds of people which live here who are generous and welcoming.

Books

Book "Escalade au Maroc -Todra" from Guy Albert, only in french. Contact with the author : Guy.Abert@wanadoo.fr.
not available !

Aventures verticales des gorges du Todgha have made a new guidebook of climbing.
Find the shop of "Aventures Verticales des gorges du Todgha" Just 400m before the entrance at the gorges, to buy the last new guidebook for 250 dh (about 30$)
All information on website: https://www.climbing-in-morocco.com
You can too find the guideook in digital version to download
https://www.climbingaway.fr/fr/site-escala...

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