Thanks. I put that info in the caption for this photo but you're right, it belongs in the main description.
Right, I didn't see this picture and the caption...
The second rappel is down the east (back) side of the gendarme and not the west side, even though this looks like the logical line of descent. Failing to do so will force you to pedulum back to the ridge or even worse, rappel down the entire west face.
Massive rockfall in July or August of 2009 made descent from the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col more sketchy than usual. Some folks still descended that way, but we chose to go around the backside of Snowpatch using the "Snowpatch rappels" from the col. This took somewhat longer, but was a lot safer and may end up becoming the standard descent eventually.
Damn. Thanks for the update; I'll add it to the body of the page. Your user page says you were busy last year, knocking off what for me were several highlights of 20+ years of climbing. I'm jealous, but in a good way.
Ha, thanks! Yeah, I guess I was pretty lucky last year. Lots of good weather when we needed it. But I also had the good fortune of being a "student" last year and had the summer off, a girlfriend who was fairly understanding, and an experienced partner who is patient with me. So....I really can't take any credit for any of it. These pages are phenomenal, by the way. They were my original motivation for going to the Bugaboos when I saw them ~3 years ago. So thanks for that!
Camping at Boulder or Applebee is $10 per person per night, and $25 per night at the Kain hut. There is also a bolted rap line down from the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col, along the east side. It was not necessary to use it when I was there, the bergschrund was mostly covered.
Just updated both sections - thanks. If you'll get me lat/long of the top of the raps, I'll include a link to a map in the Descent section. Here's a start - slide the map or photo under the center crosshairs to line up with the top anchor, and copy the lat/long from the box below: http://mapper.acme.com/?ll=50.73944,-116.78660&z=17&t=S Note that the photo of the summit of Bugaboo is shaped all wrong, because the satellite was too far west, and the the interpreting computer smeared the whole summit pyramid down the east face.